Saturday, 02 - Oct - 1993

We arrived at Vancouver at 14:00 with a temperature of 25°C and some smog; but not as bad as that in Los Angeles! I changed USD 100 into CAD 125.28, then took a bus to the hostel and arrived at 16:25. I checked in, then went for a walk of discovery; the colour of the leaves had just started turning to a golden colour - beautiful!

As the hostel was clean, and located in a nice part of town, I decided to book another three nights (until Tuesday morning). Someone mentioned the showing of a video this evening, so I made my way to the TV room. At 20:45, it eventually started: Sneakers, with Robert Redford and Dan Akroyd (of Ghostbusters fame). I enjoyed it, except for the first 20 minutes - I fell asleep and apparently, I was snoring! I went to bed at 22:35.

Sunday, 03 - Oct - 1993

I awoke at 09:00 after a very good night's sleep! Breakfast was cereal, toast and orange juice, for CAD 3.50 (£1.75). I was initially undecided what to do, but I walked for the nearby Kitsilano Beach. Although it was fairly low in the sky, the sun was quite hot. Fortunately, there was an on-shore breeze. On the Kits Yacht Club pier, I watched people fishing and crabbing. I got talking to one of the fishermen. He belonged to the yacht club. He also said that "Vancouver is the California of the north".

By 12:00, there were more people on the beach, so I joined them by doing a bit of sunbathing. One girl recognised the T-shirt I was wearing (TVS - Television South, in the UK); amazing, so far from home! I later parked myself on one of the many tree trunks that laid on the beach (Photo CA-001) and watched the world (and yachts) go sailing by (Photo CA-002).

Photo CA-001

Photo CA-002

I left the beach at 16:00 and returned to the hostel and planned my clothing for the next two days (including washing my jeans and shorts in 'hot' water!). I went for another walk and, behind the hostel, came across a group from the hostel playing baseball. Having joined in the fun, we finished at about 19:10, returned to the hostel, and had a vegetable lasagne and two beers. The evening's film was Cool Hand Luke at 21:15. It was followed by Monty Python and the Holy Grail (at 23:30), but I was too tired to watch it.

Monday, 04 - Oct - 1993

The morning reminded me of a typical British autumn morning. I made my way to the post office, to call the UK, but I was directed to the BCTEL Building. Once there, I was directed to a credit card phone booth in a nearby shopping mall! I eventually called at 10:50 (18:50 U.K.). As my son was going to Israel on the 20th, he was due to have appropriate injections.

I walked to the Harbour Centre Mall and went up the Vancouver Tower. Unfortunately, the visibility wasn't too good, due to fog/mist still not having been burnt away by the sun. While there, a film was shown, stating that Vancouver was a wealthy place - in the sense of experience and dreams; not financial. I then left and took the 13:44 trollybus tour from the Canadian Centre.

The first stop was the Totem Poles (Photo CA-004). From there, I walked (via Stanley Park Drive (Photo CA-005) and the Rose Garden) to the Stanley Park Pavilion (Photo CA-006), passing black squirrels on the way - beautiful looking creatures.

I took the 15:05 bus to Queen Elizabeth Park (Photos CA-007, CA-008 and CA-009), but unfortunately, the museum and planetarium were closed. I left there at 16:30 and arrived at Science World at 16:50 - 10 minutes before closing time!

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I continued on to Gastown - a historic part of Vanvouver, where a famous steam clock (Photo CA-010), at the corner of Water Street and Cambie Street, can be found. Unfortunately, it was not working at the time, due to maintenance - just my luck! Nearby, between Water Street and West Cordova Street, was a very narrow-looking building between the two streets (Photo CA-011)!

Photo CA-010

Photo CA-011

Photo CA-012

I made my way back to the Harbour Centre/Vancouver Lookout and watched the fog flow in from the sea (Photo CA-012)! From there, I called the sight-seeing company about going to Whistler tomorrow, but it was full. OK, so I thought what about Victoria (on Vancouver Island)? Phoning Victoria was a long distance call. I arrived back at the hostel at 19:45, purchased a phone card (for CND 12 (£6.00)) and called the Victoria Youth Hostel (now known as Hi Victoria) about accommodation for tomorrow. I was told there should not be a problem. If I got the 12:00 ferry, I should arrive there by about 16:00. I ended the evening by writing some more postcards.

Tuesday, 05 - Oct - 1993

Although the alarm went off at 07:00, I didn't get up for another hour. I thought about washing some clothes, but decided to wait until I got to Victoria. I had breakfast, left the hostel at 09:40 and walked 15 minutes to the bus stop. Five minutes later, a #10 bus arrived for Granville/4th. At 10:40, I took a #601 bus to South Delta, getting off at the Ladner Exchange Centre (at 11:15), from where I took the 11:20 #640 bus to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal; arriving 15 minutes later. The ferry left at 12:05 and arrived at Swartz Bay (Vancouver Island) at 13:40. A waiting #70 bus left at 14:00 and after travelling through pleasant woodland, I arrived at the Victoria Youth Hostel (at 516 Yates Street) at 15:00.

I checked in for two nights and then went exploring. I came across an office of Canadian Airways and enquired about flights between Vancouver and Toronto; of which there were many. The flight time was between 3½ and 4 hours, with Toronto being 3 hours ahead of Vancouver. While in the office, I booked myself onto a combined City and Butchart Gardens Tour; with no prescribed date or time.

I walked along the water front and watched some seals in the harbour. At 18:50, a ferry arrived. I enquired about it and found out it was the ferry between Victoria and Seattle. The single fare was USD 6.25/CND 8.25 (£4.12)! Tomorrow was the last day of the summer timings. If I travelled on the 10:30 sailing, I would have approximately 5 hours in Seattle, before returning on the 17:15 sailing. However, after tomorrow, I would only have 2 hours, having to return on the 14:00 sailing.

Photo CA-013

Photo CA-014

Photo CA-015

Upon returning to the hostel, I joined a conversation between two Scots and a Californian. One of the Scots was Ken Hunter (from Aberdeen); he was retired and backpacking on his own. There's really no age limitation to this backpacking activity! I got the feeling that Victoria is a spiritual place. The Californian guy spoke about being an Indian in a past life. Ken was also a spiritual guy. He went to Donegal after the death of his wife. She always told him to do your own thing! He was! (She was probably here with him!) Years ago, the Canadian Indians were persecuted by the white man. I though about visiting the town's museum!

By this time, I was feeling hungry. I suggested to Ken that we go for a beer. We popped around the corner to the Hog in the Pound. Once settled, Ken told me that his wife died four years ago. This was his first attempt at backpacking, and like me, was enjoying it. He had three daughters, one of which was married to a guy (who worked for Bill Gates (of Microsoft fame!)) and lived in Sydney. I thought that Ken could be a useful future contact!

The first pint went down without touching the sides; that was after we sampled two beers! To soak up the alcohol, I had Shephard's Pie, chips and vegetables. A well-lubricated guy gained our attention and we got talking. It turned out, he was the owner. Needless to say, we did quite well from a liquid refreshment point-of-view! We eventually left about midnight! It was a good thing that the hostel was literally across the road from the pub!

Wednesday, 06 - Oct - 1993

Although my alarm was set for 08:00, I got up at 08:15 because I had a fuzzy head and stomach! I had until 10:00 to have breakfast. However, I left the hostel (it was raining lightly) and searched for somewhere that served breakfast. At Smitty's (in Douglas Street), I had three pancakes and four sausages, but could only eat three pancakes; they were very filling. Suitably refuelled, I left at 09:50 and took a 10 minute walk to the ferry.

I purchased two single tickets CND 16.50 (£8.25) and had to complete yet another US immigration form, keeping Part I to be handed in at the departure time. The weather didn't look good; 8 octas (full cloud cover) with rain showers visible. The ferry left at 10:30 and arrived at 12:15. This place didn't look like Seattle from the ferry; it looked too small! I wonder where the Boeing factory is!

I disembarked and noticed a tourist office. I asked "Where is the centre of town?" and "Is this Seattle?"
""No! Seattle is 60 miles to the south!" was the reply.

What a blunder! What I had hoped to be a day's trip to Seattle, ended up being a day's trip to some tin-pot busy ghost town named Port Angeles, in the state of Washington!

I needed to find some action and so started walking east (in the rain) along East First Street. There were plenty of car showrooms, car accessory shops and motels (a few, of which, would not look out-of-place in the film Psycho!). I wasted about an hour strolling around Payless (discounted footwear), then headed back to the ferry terminal along East Front Street.

I waited at the ferry terminal until the ferry arrived. Boarding eventually took place at 16:50, with a departure time of 17:15. Just before leaving, fog appeared within seconds, from nowhere! The fogbank lasted until we were just over half-way across. The ship's whistle sounded long blasts every couple of minutes.

Arrival time, back at Victoria, was 19:00; after seeing the sun set. I took a photo of the illuminated Legislative Assembly of British Columbia building (Photo CA-016) on my way to the hostel. At the hostel, Ken told me he had plans to go to Tofino tomorrow by bus. When I was in the Canadian Airways office, a member of staff suggested hiring a car for approximately CAD 55 (£27.50); the bus fare was CAD 45 (£22.50) each way! That got me thinking! Why don't I go and see some more of the island also?! Ken and I went for something to eat with three Germans; one (great-looking) girl reminded me of Anika Rice. Back at the hostel, Ken and I chatted for a while (including discussing hiring a car tomorrow), then I hit the sack.

Photo CA-016

Thursday, 07 - Oct - 1993

I was up at 08:10 and went down to the laundry for domestic chores. Ken was in the kitchen/dining area and offered me some cereal. I went to get some more fresh milk (1 litre); CAD 0.78 (£0.39). When I returned, Ken informed me that there might be a third person (a German girl by the name of Petra) to join us, obviously making it cheaper for us all. The dryer had finished, so I sorted out clothes for the trip and packed away the remainder, leaving my backpack in one of the hostel's lockers.

I checked out and went and sorted out a hire car. Tilden wanted CAD 57 (£28.50) and Avis (next door) wanted CAD 48 (£24.00) with a Digital Equipment discount; which I took. Back at the hostel, a fourth person wanted to join us. We left at 12:00.

We headed north-west out of Victoria on the Island Highway towards the totem city of Duncan, where we stopped for a Subway lunch. Next was the mural town of Chemainus. Footprints on the pavement around the town, highlight the numerous murals on the sides of buildings; for example, Photo CA-018. We made a stop at a fruit stall; for some bananas and corn cobs.

Photo CA-017

Photo CA-018

Photo CA-019

Next town to arrive at was Coombs, where goats live on the roof of the local store; Photo CA-020!

Along the Alberni Highway, we passed through Cathedral Grove (at the south-west end of Cameron Lake), along the side of Lake Sproat and Lake Kennedy, arriving at Tofino (via the Pacific Rim Highway) at 19:30, where we started looking for any B&B for the night. There wasn't anything in the centre of town (only hotels and motels), but on our way into the town, Petra noticed a small sign on the side of the road. One motel (advertising B&B) wanted CAD 50 (£25.00) for a single room and CAD 78 (£39.00) for a double room! We continued looking for Petra's B&B; and found it! After driving down an illuminated dirt track, at 20:00, we arrived at a wooden(?) house. The charge for a room with two double beds was CAD 55 (£27.50) including breakfast. We had a look and all four of us decided to take the room (at approximately CAD 15 (£7.50) each.

Photo CA-020

Photo CA-021

Photo CA-022

The place was charming, with character. After registering (breakfast was at 08:00), we were offered coffee and then watched television; an episode of Are You Being Served?. Tomorrow's plan was to visit the rain forest, and hot springs, and do some whale watching and canoeing. We could stay a second night and then head for the MacMillan Provincial Park, Cathedral Grove, and then back to Victoria. We retired at 22:15. I had to get something from the car and by the time I got back to the bedroom, the sleeping arrangements had been finalised: Ken and Frank in one bed and Petra and I in the other bed!

Friday, 08 - Oct - 1993

Breakfast was at 08:30; eggs, bacon and potatoes. At 09:45, we left, with the intention of going to a bank, but a whale watching trip was due to leave at 10:00, so we forgot about the bank! It was 'all aboard the skylark' (for CAD 35 (£17.50)) for an approximate 2-hour trip to Cox Bay. At one point, the sea had a swell of about 3 metres, but there moments when there were hardly any wind ripples on the water's surface; it took on a treacle-like appearance (Photo CA-023), which made me think of a similar sea state experienced in Thailand a few months earlier (Photo TH-023).

Photo CA-023

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Photo CA-025

We arrived at Cox Bay at 10:50 and was almost immediately greeted with the sight of a water spout from a whale's blow hole! In all, we saw about 10 grey whales, although it is possible that some of the sightings could have been the same whale; Photo CA-024 is the fluke of one of them. We left about half-an-hour later and took a slightly different route back; past a rock with a colony of cormorants and sea lions (Photo CA-025), one of which was a large bull sea lion.

Back at Tofino (at 12:10), Ken went to the bank and I went to a bakery - for a pie. We could have had a combined trip to see the whales and the hot springs, for CAD 50 (£25.00), from the Whale Centre, but we wanted to go to the rain forest. The company Jamie's was suggested for that, as a guy named Dutch takes trips to Meares Island - where the world's second largest cedar trees grow - for CAD 15 (£7.50). However, we were left waiting for some time and I suggested we went to the rain forest at Long Beach. At 14:30, just as we were about to leave, Dutch arrived. He wanted to take us at 15:00, but I told him that we had been waiting long enough. So Dutch decided to take us there and then!

On our way, we spotted a bald eagle in the tree tops; a photo stop was made. We reached the island at 14:50 and was greeted to the sight of a wooden path. Dutch told us to follow the path, then take the Waterside Trail. "I'll see you at 17:00" he said.

The wooden elevated footpath looked just like the Yellow Brick Road! We passed large cedar trees (some of the tallest trees in British Columbia), which appeared to get larger as we went further along the path. [We thought the wooden path was a very good and environmental idea!] Eventually, the wooden path came to an end (work in progress?), and we continued following the dirt trail. At 16:10, I started wondering if we had taken the right route, but at 16:30, we reached the edge of the island. A sign read Landing Stage ½ Hour That Way ->. At last, we were on the right trail. There were interesting sights on this part of our journey, including walking up a tree trunk with cut-outs for steps (Photo CA-030).

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We arrived at the landing stage at 17:10. We were back at the car by 17:30 and headed off to Long Beach for the sunset. We saw surfers out on the waves. We moved down the coast a few kilometres, and the sunset was excellent (Photo CA-034)!

Back at Torfino, we bought some beer from a liquor store (British: off licence) and then it was back to the Anchorage, where we caught up on our writing. The corn cobs went down very well. Petra suggested we go to the hot springs tomorrow, which meant staying a third night. I went to bed at 23:15. I was so shattered, I didn't even notice Petra get into bed beside me!

Saturday, 09 - Oct - 1993

I was last up this morning; my prerogative, as I was the driver! After eating three pancakes for breakfast (the others had 4⅓!), we left at 10:30, bound for the hot springs. At Jamie's (where we went for the whale watching), trips to the hot springs had finished; so there was no skinnydipping to-day! After a period of discussion we decided to go to Ucluelet. We visited the lighthouse viewpoint, then back to the town 'centre'.

The time was 12:15. What trips are available? There was a four-hour trip to the Broken Group Islands at 13:30, for a price of CAD 37 (£18.50). Time for an ice cream! So, we left at 13:30, bound for the Broken Group Islands. On our way, we saw seals, sea lions, cormorants and a bald eagle. We landed at Turret Island at 15:40. This island is a great place to spend a few days away from everyone and everything! We left the island at 16:15 and arrived back at Ucluelet at 17:15 - very hungry! I suggested we have fish and chips, to be eaten at Wickaninnish Beach, while watching the sun set; which we did! It was a cooler evening than it was last night. We finally arrived back at our humble abode at 19:50. While finishing our six-pack, we watched Dead Calm, which finished at 22:00.

Sunday, 10 - Oct - 1993

For reasons only known to itself, my watch alarm woke us three guys at 03:30! Anyway, it went of again at its set time of 06:00. This morning's breakfast was cereal (Raisin Bran and Rice Krispies), toast and orange juice. We finally left at 07:15, just as the sun was rising. We needed fuel, so we bought CAD 10 (£5.00) at Ucluelet, as the next gas station (British: petrol station) was 85 kms away, and the gauge was showing less than a ¼ full. After the 'top up', and with just over ½ tank, we set off for Victoria, via Port Alberni, Paulville, etc.

We arrived at Victoria at 11:25 and filled up (CAD 22 (£11.00)) before handing the car back to Avis (at 11:40). Our total fuel costs were CAD 32, divided between the four of us. Avis charged CAD 156.40 (£78.20) for the three days; approximately CAD 40 (£20.00) each.

I checked into the hostel for three nights and, at 13:00, called Leslie (a distant cousin, living in Toronto) to tell her that I will arrive on Wednesday. I will call again tomorrow, after I have arranged my flight to Toronto.

Frank, Ken and I walked to a nearby supermarket, where I bought two postcards. It was then back to the hostel to put the perishables in the fridge. I went along the wharf to the harbour to write the postcards. The sun was hot, but it was cool in the shade. I saw two guys set up their 'patch', where they were to do some spray painting (Photo CA-035), similar to what I saw in Santa Monica (Photo US-062). I watched them for a while, then walked to the Fisherman's Wharf (Photo CA-036), returning to the hostel via Government Street, and the Hotel Fairmont Empress (Photo CA-037) and Wharf Street, and its car park (Photo CA-038), and finally through the town, arriving back, a bit cool, at 17:00.

Photo CA-035

Photo CA-036

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I went and sat in the rest area, and before I knew it, I was catnapping - knackered! I showed my photographs of Bangkok to Ken, who later suggested we eat at 20:00. Ken, Frank and I eventually left for The Keg at 20:15. We all took the Salad Bar (for CAD 6.95 (£3.47)) and a pint of beer. I took a second plate of fruit. Once back at the hostel, I was in bed by 22:15.

Monday, 11 - Oct - 1993

My alarm was set for 08:30, but I was up before it went off. I left the hostel at 09:30 and headed for the Canadian Airways office. I noticed that Victoria was very quiet for a Monday, until I realised it was a public holiday - Thanksgiving! So I walked through Bastion Square, down to the wharf and around the harbour to the museum. A German Police Brass Band was playing in front of the British Columbia Provincial Legistative Building (Parliament Building). I had arranged to meet Frank and Petra at the front of the building at 10:30, but at 10:35, I went in without them.

All exhibits were on the first and second floors. The first exhibit was the Open Ocean. I obtained a free ticket for the 11:00 showing. While walking through the 'town' exhibit (on the second floor), there was a showing of Charles Chaplin's The Gold Rush. I left the museum at 14:45 (the clock was chiming) and enquired about the next city tour; which was due to departat 15:30. I wasted the next 40 minutes around a less-quiet city, and boarded the 15:30 bus for a 1½ hour tour of Victoria.

After returning to the start at 17:00, I passed Sam's Deli and saw someone come out with a prawn sandwich; and what a sandwich it was! As I was hungry, and it looked healthy, I went in and ordered the same sandwich (CAD 4.95 (£2.47)) to take back to the hostel. At the hostel, I put my bag into one of the lockers and headed down to the kitchen to eat the sandwich. Ken arrived shortly afterwards with his own food. Once finished, we went to get some fruit (and fresh milk) and returned to the hostel's TV room, where we watched an episode each of Last of the Summer Wine and Star Trek, and Lawrence of Arabia (between 20:10 and 23:50), and then I went to bed!

Tuesday, 12 - Oct - 1993

I was up at 08:15 and left the hostel at 09:00 to locate a bakery - for breakfast. I bought a raisin scone and a cinnamon Chelsea bun - yummy!, and ½ litre of fresh milk on my way back to the hostel. After breakfast, I made my way (again) to the Canadian Airways office and booked a seat on tomorrow's 14:15 flight to Toronto.

At the Tourist Office, I was told (at 09:50) that the next bus to Butchart Gardens (to the north-west of Victoria) was due to depart from the Empress Hotel at 10:00! So it was a quick walk to the hotel, where I boarded the bus, for the 40 minute journey. I spent about an hour and 45 minutes walking around the gardens (at the same time, trying to avoid the rain showers).

The Ross Fountain (Photo CA-039) was developed in 1964, in an abandoned, water-filled quarry at the extreme souther end of The Sunken Garden, and was designed by Mr. Ian Ross, the then owner of The Gardens. The programmable controller of the fountain opens and closes valves to create the different sprays (including what I think is a good representation of Canada's Maple Leaf) every 4 minutes, with the highest jet reaching a height of eighty feet! Photo CA-040 and Photo CA-041 are two views of the actual Sunken Garden. A map for the gardens is available behind this link.

Photo CA-039

Photo CA-040

Photo CA-041

Back at Victoria, I sat in the warm sun, ate a scone and passed some time playing a few games on my Game Boy. Following that, I went window shopping and regret not buying an embroided sweat shirt at the gardens (for CAD 39.95 (£19.97)), as they were almost double the price in Victoria! Oh well. I came across a computer shop that had a good selection of software; including Microsoft's Access V1.1 and Microsoft's Flight Simulator V5 for CAD 87.00 (£43.00); no cheaper than in the U.K.

I phoned Leslie at 16:10 (19:10 Toronto time) and left a message on her answer machine, saying that I will be on the 14:15 flight, arriving at Toronto at 21:35, so I expect to be with you not too long afterwards. At 16:45, Ken returned from a walk around the park. As he was leaving this evening, he kindly offered me his food that he couldn't take with him. I helped him take his luggage to the 17:50 catermaran to Seattle - the one I should have taken a few days ago - where we said our "Goodbyes". I hate Goodbyes!

Back at the hostel, I did some domestic chores and then joined those in the TV room and watched the Toronto Blue Jays beat the Chicargo White Sox 6-3, at baseball. It was great to see an American team beaten by a Canadian team! As my next destination was Toronto (the home of the Blue Jays), it was suggested I try and watch a baseball game there! After packing, I went to bed at 23:00.

Wednesday, 13 - Oct - 1993

I was up at 06:40 after a somewhat restless night; probably worried about over-sleeping. Breakfast was toast. After my final packing, I left the hostel at 07:30 and walked to the bus stop at Douglas/View. Douglas Street was busy! I took the 07:50 #70 bus to Swartz Bay (CAD 2.00 (£1.00)), arriving at the ferry terminal at 08:40. I purchased a CAD 6.00 (£3.00) ticket and boarded. The ferry left just after 09:00.

It was a misty crossing, with some thick fog banks. As with the trip from Port Angeles, a member of the crew stood at the front of the ship while it sailed through the fog. The ferry arrived at Tsawwassen at 10:40. I took a #604 bus to Ladner Exchange (CAD 1.50 (£0.75)), from where I transferred to a #404 bus to the airport, which arrived at 12:10. I checked-in for flight CP 992 (Seat 37G), wandered around for a while and phoned the U.K. at 12:10 (20:10 BST). My son was watching England play the Netherlands at football (to decide if England would go to the U.S. next year). He and a friend managed to get my Honda motorcycle going. Although the electrics were 'naff', they were able to bump-start it.

I reached the gate at 12:45, after paying CAD 10.00 (£5.00) Vancouver Departure Tax - for an internal flight! The new YVR airport had just become a private airport, and the company had implemented the tax! The flight left on-time (at 14:15); my pulse rate was 63 at 15:00. The onboard film was Dennis the Menace (with Walter Matthau). Most of the flight was over cloud, but I did have a brief sight of what I thought might have been the Canadian prairies.

Related links: ------------------------ HI Victoria Youth Hostel ------------------------ British Columbia Ferry Services Butchart Gardens Butchart Gardens [Wikipedia] Canada Place Chemainus Festival of Murals Society Gastown Gastown Steam Clock Harbour Centre Meares Island The Ross Fountain Vancouver Lookout