New Zealand

[Last updated: 24-Jul-2022]

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Tuesday, 24 - Aug - 1993

I became very emotional as we flew over the coastline of New Zealand; the time was 14:40. I was actually arriving at, and achieving a life-long ambition of visiting, New Zealand; Photo NZ-001, Photo NZ-002 and Photo NZ-003 are my first live views! Although it can be seen that there wasn't much snow on the Southern Alps, the view, through my watery eyes, was wonderful! I wondered about my chances of skiing in the southern hemisphere for the very first time; it looked slim!


Photo NZ-001

Photo NZ-002

Photo NZ-003

We landed at Christchurch Airport at 15:00 and I cleared immigration and customs quite swiftly and without any problems. Wow! I'm actually here! My first task was to head for the ex-Stonehurst Hostel, in Gloucester Street, where I checked-in for an initial two nights; at NZD 15 (£5.93) per night.

Once settled in, I called John Patrick (the father of Leigh (in Brisbane)). They had a meeting that evening, but kindly arranged to pick me up at 21:30, outside the hostel, to show me a few of the city sights. While waiting, I noticed that the hostel had a tourist office. Skiing is possible at Mount Hutt, with pickup and drop off at the hostel! I gave it some thought! To finish off the waiting time, I was given a free 'Welcome' beer in the very smoky bar and watched The Inspectors episode from Faulty Towers.

I was duly collected at 21:30, and after being given a sightseeing tour around the city, was returned to the hostel at 22:35. We arranged to meet at 18:30 tomorrow for a NZD 9.99 evening meal (£3.95).

Wednesday, 25 - Aug - 1993

I was up and about by 08:30, in plenty of time to listen to the BBC's World Service News at 09:00 (21:00Z). After reviewing my finances (I was left with £360 and all was in order), I left the hostel to go walkabout. I noticed a branch of the National Bank of New Zealand (which had the recognisable Lloyds Corporate Black Horse sign hanging outside), from where I withdrew NZD 20, using my Lloyds CashPoint card; just for the hell of it!

I took a couple of photos of the cathedral (Photo NZ-004 and Photo NZ-005) while exploring. I am so glad I did, as it, and Christchurch generally, was badly damaged by an earthquake on 22-Feb-2011.


Photo NZ-004

Photo NZ-005

While walking around, I couldn't help but notice a number of old makes of British cars on the roads: Austin A40s, Austin 1100s, Cambridges and Austin 1800s.

Other interesting discoveries in the city included New Regent Street and its colonial-styled buildings (Photo NZ-006 (before the laying of the tram tracks)) and Victoria Square, with its bronze statue of Queen Victoria (Photo NZ-007). On the subject of the tramway, it looked as if a tramway network was either being constructed in places, or an existing network was being extended; see Photo NZ-008. [I wonder how it was affected by the earthquake in 2011.]


Photo NZ-006

Photo NZ-007

Photo NZ-008

I continued walking around, trying to find a suitable ski jacket. I saw a nice one for NZD 329 (£130.04). The shop said it would hold it for me until 16:00, as I thought it a bit expensive (probably because the shop was in the city centre (and aimed at the Japanese tourists)). I also wanted more time to check other shops. In doing so, I came across the Information Centre and booked myself (NZD 15 (£5.93)) onto the 12:00 bus to Mount Cavendish/Mount Pleasant; which I duly arrived at about an hour later, but not before having a chance to take a photo of Mount Cavendish before the bus started its climb up the mountain; see Photo NZ-009. There were great views of Christchurch and Lyttelton from the top, as illustrated in the following images.


Photo NZ-009

Photo NZ-010

Photo NZ-011
 
The following two images show panoramic views of Christchurch and Lyttleton, taken from the top of Mount Cavendish

Photo NZ-012

Photo NZ-013

I returned to Christchurch on the 14:15 bus, and asked the driver to drop me off at the ski shop, which he kindly did. I ended up buying a fleece jacket (more to my liking) for NZD 120 (£47.43); which I still use to this day (2019)! I continued window shopping, until I came across a book shop that contained a good selection of books on spiritualism, as well as a few books on palmistry.

The weather was beginning to get cool, so I made my way back to the hostel, where I started thinking about my South Island itinerary. My final route was to leave Christchurch for Queenstown, Milford Sound (named after Milford Haven in Wales), the Franz Josef Glacier and Greymouth. From Greymouth, I would return to Christchurch via the Trans-Alpine Express. I also looked at travel to Kaikora (for whale watching), Picton (where I would take the ferry across to) Wellington, on to Rotorua and finally arriving Auckland. With my YHA discount (30%), Laurence (in the hostel's travel shop) worked out the cost to be NZD 460 (£181.82). That was approximately the same as the '8 days in 14' travel ticket. I said I would think about it and let him know this time tomorrow.

A few minutes later (at 18:25), Jan and John arrived at the hostel and we headed to the nearby Chancery Restaurant, in Gloucester Street. Between 16:00 and 19:00, a meal could be had for NZD 9.95 (£3.93). I had vegetable soup, roast pork (with crackling!) carrots, beans, turnips and croquette potatoes. For dessert, I had apple pie with ice cream and fresh cream. Very good value for money! Over dinner, we discussed my planned route. John thought that it would take me to all the places to be seen. We left the restaurant at 21:00 and after dropping Jan off at their home, John took me back to the hostel.

I was just about to get out of the car when he and I realised that the three of us had something in common; spiritualism. "Come home" he said. "Jan would be very interested in what you believe". Back at their home, we sat and talked and talked and talked. They had the same thoughts as me about Leigh (their daughter) and Peter's religious beliefs, but said that they cannot interfere. Although I got the impression that they were concerned, they said that Leigh has to find out for herself.

I though that this was also part of the Big Plan - that I should meet Leigh and Peter in Hong Kong, then in Brisbane, and ultimately be introduced to her parents in Christchurch.

The 'meetings' that Jan and John had been mentioning were to do with spiritualism and its many aspects. The three of us discussed many things, including my emotional feelings when flying over the coast of New Zealand and the hypocritical teachings (brainwashing!) of the Assembly of God, etc. Jan said that she has studied many religions (and had arrived at spiritualism), astrology (she is an Aries), homeopathy, and virtually everything else that is available!

They invited me to a hypnotic regression meeting tomorrow evening at 19:15. I got back to the hostel at 23:15, and found it hard to get to sleep. Could it have been what had been discussed, or the coffee I'd had?

Thursday, 26 - Aug - 1993

I was up at 06:20 because I was off to Mount Hutt today for some skiing! Someone, who had skied yesterday, kindly lent me a hat and gloves. I left my valuables at reception and was picked up at 07:00 (15 minutes earlier than scheduled).

After various pickups, the minibus was almost full. It was a clear morning, with a temperature of -2°C; the day's maximum was expected to be +14°C! The snow report was good, but looking at the mountains, I couldn't see how.

We arrived at Mount Hutt at 08:55. After purchasing a ski pass, salopettes and ski equipment, I was on the piste at 09:45. Once I had warmed up, I made my way to the top of the resort, from where Photo NZ-014, Photo NZ-015 and Photo NZ-016 were taken. There was some high cloud and a very light wind, but the warmth of the sun could be felt.


Photo NZ-014

Photo NZ-015

Photo NZ-016

After a while, my boots became a bit painful. However, it was better if I leaned forward! The lunch break (rice and lasagne; a strange combination!) provided some welcome relief. By mid-afternoon, the upper slopes had become shaded, so I headed down to the brighter nursery slopes. I finished skiing at 15:25 and we left the car park at Mount Hutt at 15:55, arriving back at the hostel at 17:20. For me, it seemed a quick journey, as I had fallen asleep for about 30 minutes!

After changing, tomorrow's weather forecast (on the hostel's notice board) read cold, due to a snowy blast from the south. I made my way into the bar for another free beer to wait for Jan and John to pick me up (at 19:15). In actual fact, they arrived at 19:00. On the way to their meeting house, John pointed out the Beckenham Seafood fish and chip shop in Colombo Street, where fish was NZD 2.00 (£0.79).

We arrived at 19:30 and listened to the experiences of a medium who was taken, by aliens, to their mother ship. She was regressed by hypnosis two years earlier (in 1991), while the experience happened in 1985. She also told us that something would happen to the world in the future that will take us back to basics! [Take it as you wish. It could mean a lot of things, including the World Trade Centre aircraft hijacking in 2001, or the earthquake that destroyed parts of Christchurch in 2012.]

Once the meeting had ended at 21:35, Jan performed numerology on my birth date, adding my date numerals together produced: 13 → 4. Apparently, there is something about the number 13. I was then introduced to a number of Jan's friends as "the special person I was telling you about"! Jan was seeing a group of astrologers on Tuesday (31-Aug-1993). I would like to get my birth chart in front of them if I am able. Jan also said that she had a dream about someone last Monday night. When I took my glasses off, she realised it was me; and I hadn't even yet arrived in New Zealand! She even woke John and told him. Unfortunately, she wouldn't tell me what she saw (the coming of another Messiah?) [joke]!

I was dropped off back at the hostel at 22:30, after which, I called my parents in Slough (10:30 BST) to ask for the time of my birth, but there was no answer. While I was at it, I also tried calling Thatcham, but the answerphone started. I tried my parents again at 23:15, but there was still no answer at Slough.

Friday, 27 - Aug - 1993

I was up at 07:30, in order to call Slough at 07:45 (20:45 yesterday), but again, there was no answer! So I called Vivian (my brother's wife), who told me that my parents were on holiday in Scotland; returning next Tuesday. I called Thatcham, but had the answerphone again; I left a brief message. I tried again at 09:15 (22:15 BST), but had the answerphone again! [It was obvious I wasn't meant to talk to anybody back home!]

I called Jan at 09:35 to tell her that my parents were on holiday. I believe I was born at 02:20 (01:20 GMT). She said that she would call her friend about a possible birth chart. I performed numerology on my full name; the result being quite interesting. I felt I needed to write this all down when we meet next week.

I made my way to the Canterbury Museum. There was an interesting guide on the Antarctic exhibitions, but it was a bit long-winded. I bought 10 postcards and sent cards to Thatcham, Keith Bailey Travel (Thatcham), The Drum (Bruxelles), Doris and Barry Fouracre, Melvyn and Shirley, Mike and (the late) Diane Hart (Thoiry, Pays de Gex, France) and my brother at Bracknell; the NZD 1 (£0.39) stamp, at the time, really took my interest.

I called Alex and we arranged to meet at 13:55. He took me to Beckenham Seafood, where we bought cod and one scoop of chips; wow, what a pack of food! Then Alex suggested we head off to Lyttleton (Photo NZ-011), passing through the tunnel, for somewhere to eat. We parked in a quiet part of the port and tucked into our lunch. It didn't take long for a large number of seagulls to congregate around the car. They certainly had a feast, as we were unable to finish our generous quantities of chips!

With lunch over, I was taken to Sumner; a town on the other side of the peninsula, where we had ice cream for dessert. During conversation, Alex thought I was a paticular age! I cannot remember if I told him I was a few years older! I do remember saying that I do not like flies and moths; as one such creature had entered the car. Rather than try and kill it, Alex simply told me to tell it to "go out"! And it did!

I was dropped off in Christchurch at 17:00 and located the 'cosmic' shop (that we had been talking about), but I wasn't impressed. I returned to the hostel at 17:25 and booked my NZD 25 (£9.88) bus trip to Queenstown. Having arranged the transport, I had to arranged accommodation, so I phoned Bumbles Backpackers (+64 3 442 6298) to reserve a bed for tomorrow night, and then made my way into the bar for my free beer, before leaving for the 8-salle cinema to learn of the viewing times of Jurassic Park. A few minutes later, John walked in, saying that they were on their way to the Chancery Restaurant, and would I like to join them, before their 20:00 meeting. It was a real nice surprise!

Although I was still full from the fish and chips at lunchtime, I was very happy to go along with them. Jan mentioned that there is a dance evening a week tomorrow; "I'll even get some female company for you, if you want!" Yes please!

During the meal, Jan explained numerology to me: the letters of the alphabet (a to z) have a numerical value. Click to reveal the details.

We left the restaurant at 19:40, and Jan and John went to their meeting, while I walked along Manchester Street to the cinema. The Jurassic Park showing times were 20:00 and 22:15. I will watch it at a later date. At 20:20 (09:20 BST), I called Thatcham and my son answered. He told me that he was labouring at Building Supplies Thatcham, earning £15 per day. A bit of pocket money for him! He asked if I could get XL size T-shirts; the large ones arrived this morning. I can only assume that the large size wasn't baggy enough - for the then style of children's clothing!

My daughter thanked me for her birthday present (jeans and T-shirt), although her birthday wasn't until next month. My phone card ran out, so I used 000944 collect call (or whatever it was at the time!). Back at the hostel, I watched an episode of Birds of a Feather before falling asleep.

Saturday, 28 - Aug - 1993

This morning, I was up at 06:25 and left the hostel (for Queenstown) at 07:30; the temperature was +1°C! By 09:30, the route had started climbing, with snow-covered mountains around. The scenery looked like a combination of France, Switzerland, the Lake District and Scotland, but with grazing sheep! At 10:25, we passed along the southern edge of Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki (Photo NZ-017), and at 11:30, we had a 20 minute break at the Omarama service station' (Photo NZ-018). The remainder of the journey took us along the man-made Lake Dunstan (Photo NZ-019), through Cromwell (Photo NZ-020), and on to Queenstown. I finally arrived at Bumbles Backpackers at 14:20. It was a very clean hostel, ideally situated on the edge of Lake Wakatipu (Photo NZ-021).


Photo NZ-017

Photo NZ-018

Photo NZ-019
 

Photo NZ-020

Photo NZ-021

Photo NZ-022

It wasn't possible to go to Milford Sound until Monday, as there was no Sunday service; so I did some domestic chores until 16:20. After that, I headed off into town in search of some gloves and socks (if I wanted to do some skiing), and an ATM (hole-in-the-wall (cash machine)). R & R Sports (on the corner of Rees Street and Shotover Street) had some gloves at NZD 22.00 (£8.69) and socks at NZD 13.50 (£5.14). Before buying them, I searched, and found, a branch of The National Bank at the lake end of The Mall, where I withdrew NZD 50 (£19.76).

While returning to Bumbles, I noticed one company selling a daily trip to Milford Sound for NZD 128 (£50.59). Back at the hostel reception (17:30), I was informed that Gray Line had a trip to Milford Sound tomorrow for NZD 99 (£39.13). I booked myself on it, as I thought the ski slopes would probably be busy on a Sunday.

I visited the local store to buy some fresh milk, Kelloggs Variety, a cereal bowl, bananas, lemonade and pastries for tomorrow. Following that, Kevin (an Anglican priest) and I made our way to The Cow (in Cow Lane) for something to eat. On the way, we popped into a number of shops, looking for ski hats. In one, I saw one, which cost NZD 29 (£11.46) that matched my jacket; it also had flaps for the ears. I ended up buying three; one for me and one each for the children. Near The Cow, we entered Wicked Willies bottle shop, to buy a NZD 15 (£5.93) bottle of Chardonnay. I thought it strange, but BYO means Bring Your Own (drink).

On entering the restaurant, it was full of (people and) smoke, but it wasn't from cigarettes; it was from an open wood fire! We ordered bread and a small Her Majesty's Special (NZD 16.45 (£6.50)) and sat down to eat at 21:20. At the end of the meal, we started talking to three Kiwi youths who had, in the meantime, sat next to us. Finding out that I was English, they started joking about how the All Blacks beat the English rugby team.

It was a very clear, cold evening as we made our way back to Bumbles via another backpackers hostel. It was there that I noticed addresses at Franz Joseph and backpackers in The Square, Christchurch. I will try and pre-book my accommodation on Tuesday. I planned to go to Franz Joseph on Wednesday, then to Greymouth on Thursday, returning to Christchurch on Friday. I was in bed by 23:15, as I needed to get up at about 06:30 tomorrow.

Sunday, 29 - Aug - 1993

It was very cold when I got up (at 06:40), even though the electric heater had been on all night! I had two packs of cereals for breakfast, before getting ready. I was picked up at 07:35 from the hostel and taken to the coach departure point. We left at 08:30 for a 300 km ride to Milford. The reason for it being cold in the hostel was it was cold outside! The driver estimated that there was 10 or 11 (Celcius) degrees of frost!

Our route started off along the shores of Lake Wakatipu - meaning the Lake of the Sleeping Giant - which rises and falls 4" in 20 minutes. The bus doubled up as a community service, stopping at Mossburn to take on bread for the village of Te Anau - meaning the Caves of Running Water. On our approach to Te Anau, we passed through some fog, although our visit to Milford was expected to be very clear (as can be seen in the following photographs.

Upon reaching Te Anau (at 10:00), we made a 30 minute stop at the Travelodge for a morning break. For NZD 2.00 (£0.79) I had coffee and scones (with thick cream and raspberry jam!). I took a lot of cream, as it was the first I'd had in a long time, plus, I wanted to float some on the top of my coffee. [I thought it was a bit too early to ask for cognac!] The general coffee stop discussion seemed to be about the local area:

We then set off for Milford Sound. En route, we passed through the single-track Homer Tunnel (1.2 km long and 1,000 m above mean sea level). Approximately five miles farther on, we pulled off the road, to visit The Chasm, where the large quantities of precipitation have eroded the rock. If they are still available, watch the following two motocycle video clips along Route 94: from inside the tunnel, to The Chasm (6:46 minutes), with music by Santana, and to Milford Sound (10:45 minutes), with music by Visage - Fade To Grey.

We arrived at Milford (named after Milford Haven, Wales) and boarded the cruise boat. Just prior to our 13:30 departure from the berth, we were offered a chance to returm to Queenstown (after the cruise) by taking a 35 minute flight. I declined the offer, wanting to see the countryside again. [The airstrip is situated alongside the sound's cruise terminal.]

The following eight photographs are of Milford Sound.


Photo NZ-023

Photo NZ-024

Photo NZ-025

Photo NZ-026
 

Photo NZ-027

Photo NZ-028

Photo NZ-029

Photo NZ-030

At one of the many waterfalls, the boat moved closer to it, for those who wanted to taste the (pure) mountain water. I managed to get half a glass of water, and wet jacket, jeans and trainers! After I had drunk the water, the captain announced that those who had captured some water, could visit the lounge and receive something to put in it. I stated that I had already drunk my water before the announcement. "OK, as you are wet, you can have a miniature bottle of whiskey." I decided to have a (free) coffee and poured the whiskey into it; it was lovely and warming!

Towels were provided so that we could dry ourselves. Boats are unable to anchor in the sound (which should be called a fjord) because it is so deep. Even the QE2 looked small when it visited the sound.

Ten trippers decided to fly back, while the rest of us started our return coach journey at 15:30. We reached Te Anau at 17:10 for a 20 minute stop, finally arriving back in Queenstown at 19:30.

I called in at Kiwi Discovery to get kitted out for tomorrow's skiing. It seemed that although I requested premium skis, I wasn't charged for them. There were three levels of ski hire: standard, premium and executive (or something!). I hired standard poles, boots and salopettes for NZD 49 (£19.37). I was able to leave my equipment at the shop for tomorrow morning.

Upon arrival back at Bumbles, I extended my stay for two more nights (Monday and Tuesday). My plan for Tuesday was to take the Skyline Gondola, visit the bank, arrange transport to Franz Josef and perhaps take a half-day tour. At 20:40, I went into town for chicken and chips in a basket, then returned to my room to sort out clothes for tomorrow and washing for Tuesday.

Monday, 30 - Aug - 1993

I was up and about at 07:00. Although I was nice and warm IN my sleeping bag, it was cold OUT of it! I was at the pickup point at 08:00 and the bus arrived (on time) at 08:15. After collecting my equipment from the shop, we left at 08:30 and arrived at The Remarkables an hour later.

The driver offered a free guide of the resort to anyone of intermediate skiing skills. Those interested were to meet outside the main entrance at 10:30. After queuing for 35 minutes for a lift pass, I took the Shadow Basin chair lift (because there was no queue) to get warmed up. I came down via the Catwalk run. Six of us chose to meet for a tour of the resort. We set off, taking the same chair lift I had taken a few minutes earlier, but we came down the Homeward Run. It was a good red run, but a bit crusty.

Where the run met the road, it was similar to skiing on sand dunes; tufts of course grass poking through the snow. The last few yards were simply mud! We had to wait 20 minutes for the next shuttle bus to take us back to the resort. At the resort, we (again) took the Shadow Basin chair lift, but from the top, we traversed the slope in order to ski the Alto Chutes; another good piste, especially after the exhausting traverse. Next, it was up the Sugar Bowl chair lift (twice), before a break for lunch.

The skiing had given me a bit of an appetite. I had rice with a sausage curry; and very good it was too. For the afternoon skiing session, I had thought about doing some free skiing, but finally decided, along with two others from the morning group, to meet our 'guide' at 13:30.

We started by taking the Shadow Basin chair lift (again), but only as far as the mid-station (one of only two left in New Zealand!), to ski the mid-station bowl (again). The second time, we walked to the lookout point, from where there are great views of Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown; see Photo NZ-032 and Photo NZ-033. After a quick photo shoot, we skied down the Hour Glass piste. Well, as I was a bit scared (brown trousers sprang to mind!), I side-slid down through the outcrops of rock! Once at the bottom, we decided to do the run again. However, after arriving at the top, we skied down The Elevator piste instead!


Photo NZ-031

Photo NZ-032
 
The following image shows a panoramic view of Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu
taken from the top of The Remarkables

Photo NZ-033

After we had walked for about 15-20 minutes, we reached the top of what looked like a 70°-ish cliff! There was No Way I was going down that - I was exhausted after the walk! I took the easy way down. It turned out that The Escalator was a mogul field and the easiest run of the day!

I arrived back at Bumbles at 17:30. I had a meeting about my planned transport to the Franz Josef Glacier. Someone was driving a car, but it was full. So, my mode of transport was to be bus, as planned. After that, it was in to town for a bite to eat (fish NZD 1.60 (£0.42)), then in bed by 21:40 - shattered!

Tuesday, 31 - Aug - 1993

Kevin (the priest) was a noisy buggar; and I wasn't the only one who said (and thought) so! I was glad I wasn't travelling with him, as I thought he also had some sort of a psychological problem. He didn't fit my image of a man of the cloth!

I made my way to the bank (by 10:15), where I exchanged a travellers cheque of £100 for NZD 267.45; Sterling was getting stronger! I popped into the travel agent and booked my journeys from Queenstown to Franz Josef for tomorrow, and from Franz Josef to Christchurch (via Greymouth and the Trans-Alpine Express) on Thursday (NZD 129 (£48.31) with the YHA discount).

Next, I walked to the Bungi Backpackers hostel to advance-book a room in the Franz Josef hostel for tomorrow night. In doing so, I was offered a purple card giving me NZD 2.00 off each night stayed in a Pavlova hostel. I returned to Bumbles to pay my dues: two nights for NZD 28 (£11.07). I wrote two postcards to Thatcham; one to the children (#15) and the other to Carol.

Much to my amazement, I saw an ex-London Transport Routemaster bus in and around Queenstown; virtually the farthest point anything could get from London! On further investigation, the bus (see Photo NZ-038) provided a service to/from Arrowtown (a historic gold mining town). It would have been something different (for me) to ride on an ex-London bus, so far from London, but the next departure was not until 14:00. Instead, I made use of a local shuttle service (which cost NZD 28 (£10.48)) and left at 12:15 and arrived in Arrowtown at 13:00.

The driver made a slight detour and drove alongside Lake Hayes, in order for us to take photographs; see Photo NZ-034. I don't think the opportunity would have arisen if I had taken the bus. We duly arrived in Arrowtown at 13:00, and feeling hungry, I searched for a shop selling food. I found the Arrowtown Bakery, which, at the time, was in Buckingham Street (the town centre). I had some lamb satay pie and a piece of meringue for dessert; and fantastic they were too! [This bakery relocated to the corner of Berkshire Street and Buckingham Street, which used to be the Bellarat Arcade; see Photo NZ-035.]

Suitably refuelled, it was time to explore. I walked along Buckingham Street until, at the western end of the street, I entered an area of historical interest; a Chinese settlement. This is where the Chinese lived during the gold rush of the latter half of the 19th Century (1800s); see Photo NZ-036. A notice stated that the dwelling in the centre of the picture belonged to someone by the name of Kong Kai.

After visiting the Chinese settlement and the nearby Arrow River, I returned to the baker, wanting to sample his apple strudel (that I had seen and smelt earlier), only to learn that it had all been sold. So I had a steak pie instead!!!


Photo NZ-034

Photo NZ-035

Photo NZ-036
 

Photo NZ-037

Photo NZ-038

Photo NZ-039

Walking towards the shuttle pickup point (outside the museum), I treated myself to a lamb skin cushion cover (NZD 19.95 (£7.47)). I wanted a true souvenire of my trip to New Zealand, and I couldn't think of anything more appropriate.

On the way back to Queenstown, I asked the driver if he would let me get off at the base of the Skyline Gondola, where I bought a return ticket (NZD 10 (£3.75)). The view from the top of Bob's Peak was fantastic; see Photo NZ-039. Unfortunately, at 16:40, the sun had started going behind the mountains, thus casting a shadow over Queenstown, but illuminating The Remarkables. I had a glass of hot mulled wine while on Bob's Peak; and very good it was too!

After arriving back to street level, I walked around and took a few more photographs (Photo NZ-040, Photo NZ-041 and Photo NZ-042) to finish off the film. Back at Bumbles, the washing machines were free, so it was domestic chores time, before retiring to watch an episode of (yuk!) Coronation Street (Alf's farewell at the corner shop), Faulty Towers (The Germans) and an episode of Blackadder.


Photo NZ-040

Photo NZ-041

Photo NZ-042

Wednesday, 01 - Sep - 1993

I was up at 06:50 for my trip along the west coast of South Island today. I left Bumbles at 07:45 and (ultimately) Queenstown on time at 08:15. As part of his commentary, the driver pointed out rosehips (which had grown out of control) and thyme (which was in abundance).

Before leaving Bruxelles, Skippy told me that, when he visited New Zealand, he did this very trip, and was lucky enough to be accompanied by a group of girls. Me? I was accompanied by a number of geriatrics!

We made our first stop at Cromwell, where I purchased some fruit; 3 kiwi fruit and 2 oranges (which cost NZD 1.80 (£0.67)).

The driver stated that the service also doubled up as a parcel delivery bus (as he left mail packages at their appropriate destination), and that the main breed of sheep was the Spannish Marino; they can survive in dry conditions. There were also Romsey sheep (from England). However, damp conditions gave them foot rot.

We had a photo stop at the Gates of Haast bridge (Photo NZ-043 and Knight's Point (Photo NZ-044 and Photo NZ-045). Knight's Point is where the two coast road construction parties met from the north and south (during the 1950s). We reached the town of Franz Josef (named after the then ruler of Austria) at 17:00 and were taken to view the glacier (Photo NZ-046).


Photo NZ-043

Photo NZ-044

Photo NZ-045

Photo NZ-046

There were numerous walks around and onto the glacier, but as I had done that type of activity (and more!) at Chamonix, France (some years earlier), I felt that I could give this particular glacier (which, at the time, moved about 1 metre per day) a miss.

Back to the town and I checked into the Chateau Franz Backpackers hostel, where I received a NZD 2.00 (£0.74) discount by showing the purple card from Bungi Backpackers hostel. One interesting fact about backpacking is meeting people. At the hostel, there was a couple that travelled on the bus that I took from the Stonehouse Hostel to Queenstown. We ended up going to one of the only two places in town to eat, where we divided a vegetarian pizza (NZD 23 (£8.61)) between the three of us, plus a NZD 3 (£1.12) beer.

Back at the hostel, I called Jan, but unfortunately, the phone card ran out. With a new one, I called again and John answered. He offered to pick me up from Christchurch railway station tomorrow evening, after the Trans-Alpine Express had arrived.

The film Planes, Trains and Automobiles had started (at 20:30) in the lounge. I had watched about 45 minutes of it, when someone suggested a walk to see gloworms. So, six of us set off into the night, armed only with two torches. Sure enough, after walking for about 15 minutes, when we switched off the torches, there were many 'lights' in the darkness.

Instead of returning to the hostel by the route we had taken, Kevin asked "What's up there?" "We can go for a circular walk, taking about 40 minutes, if you want" was the reply. So, off we set, up steps and ladders - basically up the side of the hill. At various points along the route, we are shown where the gold prospectors did their thing - moving vast parts of the hillside. Where the track widened (from the supply of water), the dog that was with us, got a bit excited. After a bit of searching, a possum was spotted in a tree. A few minutes later, a larger possum was seen. These animals were (are?) regarded as a pest. They remove the new foliage from trees and, in time, the tree dies.

We arrived back at the hostel at 22:35. My aching back was rather painful, so I 'hit the sack'.

Thursday, 02 - Sep - 1993

This morning, I was up at 08:30 and, after breakfast (my remaining kiwi fruit), left the hostel at 09:25 and headed for the bus stop; it was a very misty and overcast morning. It's strange how we (humans) bump into people that we've met before. When I got onto the coach, there was a guy on board who was in the same dormitory as me at Bumbles. We were all heading for Greymouth and (ultimately) Christchurch.

The first meal stop was at 10:30 (for an 80 cents banana). The second meal stop occured at 12:00 (at Hokitika) for 45 minutes, where I had an egg and bacon pie and canned drink; NZD 4.60 (£1.72).

We arrived at Greymouth at 13:30, just as the train from Christchurch arrived. As I had an hour to kill before departure, I went for a walk around the town, noticing plenty of gift shops! I boarded the train at 14:30, carriage B, seat 1H (by the window, facing the front).

Upon our departure, we were served with fruit juice and peanuts; similar to an aeroplane flight. We passed Moana at 15:40, Jacksons at 16:10 and Otira at 16:20 (10 minutes behind schedule); we had to wait approximately 10 minutes for a freight train. After Moana, we were served with a cup and small piece of cake. "Tea or coffee?" I took coffee. I noticed that whipped cream was served with scones, so I asked if I could have some cream for my coffee. To my delight and surprise, I was given a glass, half full (or empty!) of the cream! Great! I knew this was a tourist train, of sorts, but it also served as a means of transport. [British Railways could learn a thing or two!] All the food and drink was complimentary!

The train arrived at Arthur's Pass at 16:40 (6 minutes late), after spending 10 to 15 minutes going through the Otira Tunnel. I spent some time in the observation coach; it was cold and noisey! The weather on the other side of the tunnel was a lot brighter. But, unfortunately, the sun was getting lower in the sky, so the light wasn't good enough for photography, well, not for the simple camera I had at the time.

It may sound silly (or irrelevant) and I don't know why I noted it, but on one of the telephone posts (alongside the railway track), the wires were grouped as 1, 2, 3 and 4. However, on the next pole, they were grouped as 4, 1, 2 and 3; i.e., they were rotated 90°!

We arrived at Springfield at 17:49 (2 minutes late). A dog by the name of Rosie was fed a railway meat pie every time the evening train passed through.

The following photos were taken through the carriage window and are random views of the Southern Alps.


Photo NZ-047

Photo NZ-048

Photo NZ-049

Photo NZ-050

We arrived in Christchurch exactly on time at 18:40, where Jan and John were waiting for me. [My conclusion of the journey is that it HAS to be taken either during the summer (when the sun is high in the sky) and/or during the winter (when the area is covered in snow).]

We stopped at a fish and chip shop for some fried fish. Jan took me back to the Stonehurst hostel (to drop off my luggage, and to check back in), then the two of us went and watched the 20:00 showing of Jurassic Park, while John had a lecture to attend. The film was not what I had expected. It was full of excitement; edge-of-the-seat stuff!

Friday, 03 - Sep - 1993

I was up at 09:00 after a lie-in, and at 10:15, called Jan. She told me where the Scorpio bookshop was. We arranged for me to be picked up at 11:45 to visit Akaroa; the French settlement. It was a nice warm day (+21°C), with a warm breeze. However, by the time we reached Akaroa, the cloud had increased and the temperature had dropped. Akaroa appeared to be a sleepy town. I imagined it would be rather pleasant on a warm summer's day.

We arrived back in Christchurch at 17:30 and decided to eat (again) at our usual place - the Chancery Restaurant. This time I had lamb, and for dessert, Blackforest Gateau with ice cream and fresh cream; yummy!

After the meal, Jan wanted to go across to the library. While there, I located the astrology section, so that I could do some reading on the subject 'tomorrow'; the weather forecast was expected to be colder. I was back in my hostel room by 21:00.

Saturday, 04 - Sep - 1993

It was raining when I awoke. I finally left the hostel at 09:50 and went and bought four current buns and 1 litre of fresh milk! I did a bit of window shopping, as it was reasonably quiet. The shops opened at 10:00 on Saturdays. I arrived at the library at 11:00 to research my astrological chart. To reduce the length of this page, information for me (Libra) can be read in a Personal Astrological Character new window.

The library closed at 16:00 and I got back to the hostel at 16:10. Much to my surprise, John walked into the hostel at 16:25 to say that he'll pick me up at 18:45!

So I went to the Chancery Restaurant (again)! This time, I had the beef (it was a bit tough in parts) and for dessert, the chocolate eclairs with ice cream and fresh cream; they were a bit dry, but never mind. I returned to the hostel at 17:45 to freshen up.

Sure enough, John arrived at 18:45 and took me to his home. We left there at 19:15 for the NZ Settlers Club; mainly elderly members. Tonight's meeting was recorded for one of Christchurch's radio stations (3HP); it's all ballroom dances. My back was still giving me some discomfort in my right leg (probably a trapped nerve), so I politely declined Jan's offer of a dance. She used to be a dance teacher; taught both of her daughters to dance.

I returned to the hostel at 23:30. I had mentioned that I planned to visit the Antarctic Centre tomorrow and Jan suggested that they take me; they hadn't been to see it either. I was to phone them tomorrow at about midday.

Sunday, 05 - Sep - 1993

I woke up at 08:45, and my back pain was not as bad as yesterday. At 09:00 the cathedral bells started peeling.

A 10:00, I visitied the Tourist Office to enquire about transport from Wellington to Auckland. If I wanted a discount, I needed my YHA card. There was an overnight train from Wellington, so I booked my travel for Wednesday evening at 20:10, arriving in Auckland at 06:45. That will give me the morning to explore Auckland.

I called John at 11:45 and we arranged to meet outside the museum at 15:45. I then header down Colombo Street to the South City Mall for lunch; Thai chicken in a peanut sause, with fried rice NZD 4.60 (£1.72). For desert, I had a Blueberry Turnover; similar to an Apple Turnover, but with blueberries!

The weather was showery and the temperature was +8°C, but it was pleasant in the sun and out of the cold wind. I made my way back to Queen Victoria Park to photograph the Ferrier Fountain (Photo NZ-051, Photo NZ-052 and Photo NZ-053), located by the town hall and Boaters Restaurant. It is very similar to the El Alamein Fountain (Photo AU-041) in Kings Cross, Sydney. From there, I went and visited the Arts Centre.


Photo NZ-051

Photo NZ-052

Photo NZ-053

Inside the Arts Centre, I saw Rutherford's Den, where Ernest Rutherford started his work on radioactivity. There are a lot of galleries displaying various crafts; woollen garments, china dolls and some paintings. I normally wouldn't have paid much attention to things like this, but anything to stay out of the cold! I still had about an hour to kill, so I went across to the Canterbury Museum.

John arrived bang on 15:45. Apparently, Jan was in one of the galleries! After meeting up, we headed off to the airport to see the Antarctic Exhibition. I paid Jan and John's entrance fee as they had been running me around. We only had 1½ hours to view the exhibition, which included fantastic exhibits and photography. We came out (at 17:30) agreeing that it was very good, but a full half-day is required.

Next on the agenda was food! The Chancery Restaurant was suggested, but this time, I fancied Fish (cod) and Chips (NZD 2.60 (£0.97)). Unfortunately, I couldn't finish all of my chips!

Afterwards, we made our way to the Ashmore Centre to hear a talk on Aromathology given by Lorraine Thompson. The library there is quite something. There is a lot on astrology! The talk started (at 19:20) about the subject of beauty and didn't touch the subject of oils (that she had brough along) until 20:10. Once she started, it was quite interesting; lavender oil and sandlewood oil seem to be the most useful.

I got back to the hostel at 22:00. I called my parents at Slough, but my mother wouldn't accept the call. So instead, I called Thatcham (at 22:30 (11:30 BST)). I called twice (to avoid getting the answer machine), because even though someone would be at home, the answer machine would start, costing me NZD 4.00 (£1.50) each time! Everything was OK. The T-shirts arrived from Bangkok a few days ago. My daughter had finished Oliver and would be returning to school on Tuesday; my son wasn't there.

Monday, 06 - Sep - 1993

I started the day (10:00) by doing some domestic chores. The washing machine actually had a hot water feed! At 11:45, I left for the nearest bank (the Countrywide Bank) to change two £20 travellers cheques into NZD 111.55 (£1 = NZD 2.79), with no commission. Then it was over to the post office for the cost of a one kilogram (air mail) parcel to the U.K. The price was NZD 22 (£7.88).

Time to get some groceries, so I headed for the South City Centre for some shampoo, shower gel, milk, washing powder, peanuts and fruit and nut chocolate! I headed back to my room at the hostel, where I quickly consumed the milk! For ease of transporting the washing powder, I pourred the box contents into a plastic bag.

Back to the post office, with two ski hats and one Reebok top. They weighed 0.8 Kg, so I could send a bit more back if required, to make it up to 1 Kg. I noticed that there was a series of five Happy Birthday stamps. Hey, I thought, it's my daughter's birthday next Monday! I could send her a card with four of the stamps on it; but ended up buying all five!

Over to the library once more. The book I wanted was not available, so I chose another one: Astrology, a paperback by Ronald C. Davison (ISBN 0-916360-37-7). It listed as pre-requisites: accurate birth data (my son (23:56) and my daughter (09:40)), an ephemeris (a listing of planetary positions (in a specific year)), a table of houses and a book of time changes in the country of birth! Astrological information relevant to me (Libra) can be read in a Personal Astrological Characteristics new window.

Having noted all relevant information, I left the library and went to the Air New Zealand centre and reserved seat 40A on Thursday's flight to Fiji.

Feeling hungry, I took a meal break at 17:30 in the Chancery Restaurant (directly opposite the Canterbury Public Library). I had vegetable soup, followed by pork, and finished with Black Forest Gateau; it was obscene; some might say orgasmic!

I called John at 20:30 about tomorrow. Our plans had not changed: he will pick me up at 08:00 tomorrow morning.

I returned to the hostel and watched National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation. Bed followed at 22:40.

Tuesday, 07 - Sep - 1993

I got up at 07:00. It was a cold and wet morning. I checked out of the Stonehurst Hostel at 07:45 and went to wait outside for John. He arrived at 08:00 on the dot! We went back to pick up Jan and left their home at 08:25.

As we headed north, the cloud started clearing from the west; where the mountains are. They were all white with snow! I imagine it was a beautiful sight for anyone flying over them today! We stopped at Goose Bay (just south of Peketa (Photo NZ-054)) for a photo shoot, and arrived at Kaikoura at 10:40, where we had a snack - ice cream and BBQ crisps (not an ideal combination, nor very healthy, but we didn't care!) - on the beach (Photop NZ-055).


Photo NZ-054

Photo NZ-055

We set off again and arrived at Blenheim at 12:45, where lunch was some sandwiches; and (for me) a cherry muffin! After a walk around the town, we set off again, arriving at Pickton (29 kms away) at 14:30. We located the Pickton Lodge hostel (where I planned to stay for the night), then drove to Waikawa Point.

Back at Pickton Lodge, there was plenty of room, so I checked in; at NZD 13.50 (£4.84) per night. At 15:00, Jan, John and I said our farewells in the car park. I Hate Goodbyes!

Pickton Lodge was a nice, clean place, run by a friendly middle-aged couple. It even had a wood burner in the centre of the hostel; which was very welcoming! I was directed to a room where one bed was already allocated; by a Korean girl. I then took refuge in the lounge, where two guys were trying to get a VHS casstte player to work, but nothing was displayed on the TV. I ended up retuning the AV channel on the TV and to everyone's delight, finally got Cocktail visible on the television! "What a hero!" We ended up watching Dances with Wolves, an episode each of Fawlty Towers, Police Rescue and Black Adder, finishing the evening with Terminator II. I finally retired to bed at 23:30.

Wednesday, 08 - Sep - 1993

I got up at 07:45. During the introductory guide of the hostel yesterday, I was told that to take a shower, press a particular button that will provide six minutes of hot water. What I wasn't aware of (as I was soaping myself all over) was six minutes had elapsed! Therefore, the shower stopped and the button has to be pressed again. No problem!

Well, yes there was a slight problem. The button for the six minutes of hot water was on the OUTSIDE of the shower cubicle! Covered from head to feet in soap, I didn't fancy walking on the floor. Fortunately, someone outside of the cubicle pushed the button for me. Relief! Hot water flowed again!

One of the girls in the same room as me had travelled from Fiji and thought Beachcomber Island was expensive (at least for her budget) and suggested I went to Tavewa Island instead. Apparently, all accommodation prices in Fiji included meals. "Visit the information office at the airport" she said.

Once I was ready, I made a quick tour of the town (Photo NZ-056). I finally checked out (at 10:35), and started walking to the ferry terminal. Although Pickton Lodge was only about 200 metres from the ferry terminal, I was offered a lift. It was a beautiful sunny day, with a little cloud and cool breeze. After checking in, I went and watched the Arahura ferry birth, unload and load. I didn't realise, but the two ferries (Arahura and Aratika) carried railway rolling stock, as well as road vehicles.


Photo NZ-056

Photo NZ-057

Photo NZ-058

Photo NZ-059

I boarded at 11:30 and headed for the rear sun deck to watch the remainder of the loading and to view the town of Pickton; Photo NZ-057 and Photo NZ-058. The ship left the birth at 12:00. The view of Queen Charlotte Sound is quite beautiful. After about an hour, 'we' reach the Cook Strait Photo NZ-059. I finished the food I had, and bought 1 pint of lager NZD 3.50 (£1.25) to wash it down.

At 14:10 (south of Wellington harbour), we were informed that the ship's crew was to practice a "man overboard" scenario. A lifebelt was thrown into the water (which gracefully floated passed the ship). A few minutes later, three crew members, in a boat, were lowered to retrieve the lifebelt. The ship then went into a 360° right-hand turn. The three crew members in the boat dutifully picked up the lifebelt within a few minutes. I thought the 'three men in a boat' would rejoin the ship, but the ship completed the turn and headed for Wellington. It was all over in about 10 minutes! We were due to dock at 15:00, but we docked at 15:10.

I took the free shuttle bus to the railway station and deposited my bags into a left luggage locker for $1.50 (£0.54) then headed into town. On passing a bookshop, I looked at a Lonely Planets book about Fiji. I carried on walking and came across the Wellington Cable Car. The return fare was NZD 2.50 (£0.90).

The view from the top (Kelburn Lookout) was quite remarkable; virtually the whole of the harbour was visible. I went to take some photographs, but the film finished. After changing the film, I thought it hadn't rolled on, so I opened the camera! That was a mistake because everything was OK! I rewound the film, loaded it again and took three 'blanks' into the sun (to ensure total exposure) followed by a couple of views of the harbour (Photo NZ-063 and Photo NZ-064; the latter of which, shows the ferry 'Aratika' (white 'blob') coming around the headland).


Photo NZ-060

Photo NZ-061

Photo NZ-062
 

Photo NZ-063

Photo NZ-064

After my descent, I popped into Whitcoulls bookshop and bought the book about Fiji that I had looked at earlier NZD 29.95 (£10.73). I also noticed that New Zealand had a departure tax of NZD 15 (£5.38).

I got back to the railway station a few minutes after 18:00, bought a hot dog for NZD 2.50 (£0.89) and started reading my latest purchase. At 19:30, I made my way over to Platform 9 (soon after, the train to Auckland had arrived into that platform) and boarded it. I placed my backpack into the luggage van, then walked back four carriages to carriage 'Y'; an observation car. Unfortunately, it was a night journey, plus the lighting in the observation car was exceptionally bright; the windows took on a mirror effect. My seat (10D) was the penultimate seat before the actual observation area. We left at 20:11 and lights were eventually switched off at 22:30.

Thursday, 09 - Sep - 1993

The train arrived in Auckland at 06:50 to a rather cool, but bright day. From the front of a deserted station, I managed to get a lift into the centre of town (from an airport shuttle bus). I booked myself onto a one-hour city tour at 10:00 (NZD 10.00 (£3.58)) and went exploring the streets. I noticed in one shop that two Fuji 100 ASA films (24 exposures) was being sold for NZD 9.95 (£3.57). I withdrew NZD 40 (£14.34) from the Queens Street branch of The National Bank, as I felt that I might not have enough cash for the departure tax. With a little time to spare, I wrote card #17 and enclosed it with a Reebok sweatshirt, two ski hats, three exposed films and some paperwork (all in a Jiffy bag, that started splitting!) back to the UK. The postage (up to 1Kg) was NZD 22 (£7.88). I made a quick exit, back to the start of the city tour.

At 10:25, I alighted at the Auckland War Memorial Museum, where, at 11:30, a Maori exhibition (NZD 6.50 (£2.33)) was due to start. I simply had to see it (and very good it was too), as, up to that point, I had not seen any Maori activities during my time in New Zealand; and here I was, on the point of departure! After the display, I took the 12:25 bus for the remainder of the tour, arriving back at the start at 12:50. The next bus to the airport was at 13:15, so I had just enough time to go and get some more film. Instead of the Fuji films, I bought four Kodak rolls for NZD 15.50 (£5.56); then got back to the bus stop just in time!


Photo NZ-065

Photo NZ-066

Photo NZ-067

Photo NZ-068

I arrived at the airport at 14:00. My flight (NZ 050) had a one-hour delay; to 16:20. While checking in, the computer system went down for probably 20 minutes. Although I had been allocated seat 40A, I had no boarding pass! I spent some time wandering around the shops, then headed to Gate 5. At about 16:00, we were informed of a further delay, with a new departure time of 17:00. We actually boarded at 17:15 and were told that there was a problem with one of the engines! "A further decision will be taken at 18:00". [To be honest, I was getting excited at the thought of spending a night in a hotel at someone else's expense, rather than me trying to find somewhere on Fiji at about 22:00!] The aircraft's 'bar' opened and drinks were offered. Shortly after 18:00, we were informed that those passengers heading for Honolulu and Los Angeles will be transferred to two other flights, leaving in an hour or so. "Will passengers for Fiji please remain seated". After being told that we will be put up in a hotel for the night, we ended up being led off the plane. Yippee!

We had to complete Arrival forms, collect our checked-in luggage and proceed through customs. I started talking to a fellow passenger (Brett). He was as happy as I was because he too had to find somewhere to stay in Fiji! We were taken to the airport's Quality Inn (Room 116). I had some NZ dollars on me, so bought a beer. I got talking to Jim (reminded me of Mr. Hattersley (ex-British MP)!). Over dinner (chicken and corn soup, fish and fruit salad), he gave me some information about Fiji; however, it was dated 1979. Back in my room, I read a little, watched some TV, had a shower and got to bed at 23:30.

Friday, 10 - Sep - 1993

It was planned that we leave the hotel at 07:30 for a 09:00 take-off, so my alarm went off at 05:50, just before the phone rang at 06:00. I went for breakfast, only to be told at 06:30 that there will be a delay of one hour; i.e. leave the hotel at 08:30 and depart NZ at 10:00. I returned to my room and watched "yesterday's" 18:00 BBC News at 07:00. Once I was ready and packed, I returned to the foyer at 08:15 and boarded the coach to the airport.

Check-in was quick, apart for one passenger that gave the clerk a hard time. I met Jim and Brett and we made our way to Gate 10, but there was no plane to be seen! During conversation, we agreed to share a taxi, once we arrive in Fiji; whenever that will be! An aircraft arrived at 09:15, but I couldn't see how we would be taking off at 10:00! After a further catering delay, we finally boarded, with additional passengers from flight NZ 8. We finally left the gate at 10:30.

Flying time to Fiji was 2¾ hours. There were many free seats on that flight. We were served (a second) breakfast while watching a Mr. Bean film.


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