Thursday, 01 - Jul - 1993

As dawn broke, the last part of the flight passed over China. I was happy to confirm that the earth was still beneath us! China didn't look any different to other country that I had seen from the air; a patchwork of fields.

The name Hong Kong (Xiang Gang in Chinese) means "Fragrant Harbour" and is believed to have originated, either from the incense factories that once operated on Hong Kong Island, or from the scented national flower - the scented pink bauhinia.

I had heard about the difficulty of landing at Hong Kong, but experiencing it was something else! Our 'driver' informed us that those passengers sitting on the right-hand-side of the aircraft (including me!) could look out and see the airport; yes, I could! The only serious observation was that the line of the runway was at right-angles to our line of flight! Then, without notice, it was a case of "Right hand down a bit, …". Well actually, it was quite a lot of a bit! The plane rolled over to the right, descending all the time, appearing to barely skim over the rooftops. We finished our turn just prior to the airport perimeter! [The approach, which was probably one of the best in the world, is shown in Photo HK-017, taken from the top of the now-demolished airport car park.]

We arrived on time at 10:30 local (12 hours after leaving Heathrow; 8 hours ahead of the UK). Once the aircraft had come to a stop at the gate, it was the usual mad scramble to get off the aircraft! When I finally reached the door and stepped out of the air-conditioned aircraft and into the 'fresh' air, the heat and humidity hit me. It was like stepping into an open-air steam room; it was very humid, with an air temperature in the region of +30°C.

It is known that Hong Kong has a busy airport, but when we arrived into the passport control area, I was amazed at the number of people entering the country. There were immigration desks as far as the eye could see, with long queues at each one. It was a sea of bobbing heads! My co-passenger and I said our farewells just before approaching passport control. By the time I had been allowed into the country, she had disappeared into the sea of bodies.

I headed over to the baggage claim area to retrieve my back-pack. As it had taken a long time to clear immigration, by the time I reached the baggage claim area, all baggage had been delivered from the aircraft and was waiting for its respective owner(s).

After collecting my backpack, and leaving the baggage hall, my first objective was to get some accommodation for the night. Before leaving Bruxelles, I was given some information about accommodation in Hong Kong; specifically, the YMCA International House Hotel. It has a great view of Hong Kong's Victoria Harbour. At the time, it was quality accommodation, without being too expensive.

I headed for the Hong Kong Tourist Association desk, where I was told, unfortunately, that the YMCA was fully booked. Not wishing to splash out on anything expensive, I ended up finding a room in Chunking Mansions, at the south end of Nathan Road (Photo HK-001), Kowloon costing HKD 290 (£24) per night. I didn't realise at the time, but the room I had booked was no bigger than a 'rabbit hutch', measuring about two metres square! At least I was able to shower off the perspiration in private! I could have used cheaper accommodation, but the shower and toilets were shared! Oh! I forgot to mention that the room was on the fifteenth (15^th) floor!

Photo HK-001

Photo HK-002

Photo HK-003

Photo HK-004

Having settled in, I decided to go and explore Hong Kong. First of all, I needed extra cash to pay the balance of the room rent, as credit cards were not accepted; I was only able to pay HKD 400 of the HKD 580 required. With reference to the then Lonely Planet's Guide to Asia - Including Hong Kong, I changed my remaining Belgian Francs into Hong Kong Dollars at a branch of the Wing Lung Bank. The clerk, never having seen such notes, was confused as to their origin, but eventually gave me a better exchange rate than I had earlier received at the airport; which is normal - airport exchange rates are crap!

I then set off, passing the Space Museum and Cultural Centre (Photo HK-002) to locate the YMCA hotel. After walking for a while, I eventually found it. Sure enough, the backpacking section of the hotel was full, but I could have had a normal room for HKD 550 (£45). Not knowing what expenses lay ahead of me, I felt better off where I was. [On hindsight, I should have taken a normal room!]

After leaving the hotel, I decided to visit Hong Kong Island. As I didn't know where the Star Ferry Terminal was, I took a number 7 bus to the terminal (which cost HKD 2.10 (£0.17)). However, a few minutes later, I arrived at the terminal, and realised I could have walked! The crossing to Hong Kong Island (Photo HK-003 and Photo HK-004) took about ten minutes and cost HKD 1.50 (£0.12) and HKD 1.20 (£0.10) for the upper and lower decks respectively!

On arrival at the island, I headed for the Hong Kong tram line, (as was recommended to me by 'one of the gang' back in Bruxelles). Being the financial district, the difference between this part of Hong Kong and Kowloon was striking; like 'chalk and cheese'!

By now, the time was 17:00 and the trams were overflowing with bodies leaving their place of work, and making their way home! Still, it didn't stop me getting onto a tram bound for Shau Kei Wan (the eastern end of the line). The tram fare cost HKD 1.00 (~£0.09) per journey, irrespective of the distance travelled. That means that there is no need for a conductor; brilliant idea! Besides, it would be difficult (or near impossible) for anyone to collect fares throughout the trams when they are full! Payment was made when alighting from the tram, by placing appropriate coinage (HKD 1) into a box beside the driver!

I didn't have much of a view, as I had to stand on the upper deck. However, as the journey progressed away from Central, I was able to sit down by the glassless windows. Unfortunately, due to my tiredness, I missed parts of the journey. At the terminus, I got off and did a bit of exploring, rather than immediately returning to Central. Besides, I was hungry and thirsty. Walking around, I felt very conspicuous; I was a solitary European, surrounded by Chinese! [Thoughts of gang-land crime went through my mind!]

Anyway, low and behold, amongst the neon signs, I saw a large, distictive and recognisable illuminated yellow 'M' sign. I wasn't a fan of fast food, but in my condition, I ordered a Big Mac. It cost all of HKD 10 (~£0.90)! I believe Hong Kong was then the cheapest place in the world for a Big Mac!

Suitably re-fuelled, and without knowing where it was going, I boarded the next tram to depart and sat at the front, on the upper deck. The tram eventually terminated at the Happy Valley Racecourse. I transferred to another tram bound for Whitty Street and alighted at the Star Ferry Terminal, from where I took a late ferry across to Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon). After returning to my 'box', I was able to watch the Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships.

Friday, 02 - Jul - 1993

I awoke at 03:00 with the thought that my son was down on the street, trying to get into the building. I immediately got dressed to go down, but hesitated, in case I wasn't able to get back in! I thought "I'll have to explain to his mother why I was not able to meet him". After looking out of the window to the street below and seeing he wasn't there, I returned to bed. What a nightmare!!!

Although my alarm went off at 08:00, I eventually awoke at 10:00; due, either to the earlier nightmare, or jet lag; or a combination of both! I ventured out into a busy city and called the YMCA, only to find out that it was still full, so I entered a nearby restaurant (Spaghetti Factory) and had a combined breakfast and lunch (brunch!) of spaghetti, with sauce and mushrooms, and plenty of chilled water! Once suitably refuelled, it was time to write some postcards. I bought ten and made my way to the Tsim Sha Tsui Clock Tower (Photo HK-005) to write them.

The tower (at forty-four metres tall) is all that remains of the original Tsim Sha Tsui railway station, of the Kowloon-Canton Railway.

By the time I had finished writing, it had become very hot, with the sun directly overhead. It was a strange experience being able to 'stand' on one's shadow!

Wanting to see more of Hong Kong, I purchased a ticket for The Land Between - A New Territories Tour, leaving at 09:00 tomorrow morning, from outside the Holiday Inn in Mody Road; just around the corner from my 'box'; Figure 2 is an illustration of the route.

Next, I crossed over to Hong Kong Island and bought a bottle of Evian (HKD 18.95 (£1.58)), two oranges (HKD 2.20 (£0.18)) and a bottle of San Miguel beer (HKD 8.90 (£0.74)) from a shop called Wellcome. I then made my way to The Peak Tram, where a ticket cost HKD 16 (£1.33). The base station of the tramway is located behind the Bank of China Tower (the tall triangular-shaped building).

Once at the top of the tramway (Photo HK-006), there are excellent views of Hong Kong, including Kowloon (Photo HK-007) and the financial district (Photo HK-008). In addition, there was a variety of interesting plants, trees and sounds. Also, the temperature was noticeably cooler and more comfortable.

Photo HK-005	Photo HK-006	Photo HK-007
Photo HK-008	Photo HK-009	Photo HK-010

As the evening 'rush hour' approached, I headed back to the 'box' and arranged to extend my stay by two nights (costing me HKD 550 (£45.83)). Feeling hungry, I made my way to an Italian restaurant named Grappa and ordered a Calzone pizza - delicious (even at HKD 88 (£7.33)! The service was excellent, especially as one's water glass was continually being filled. Back to the 'box' (via Peking Road (Photo HK-009) and Nathan Road (Photo HK-010)). I arrived back in time to watch Novotna beat Navratilova (6-4 6-4) in the Wimbledon Ladies' Tennis Semi-Final.

Saturday, 03 - Jul - 1993

I awoke at 07:00 (ahead of my 07:30 alarm), giving me plenty of time to get ready and make my way to the Holiday Inn. The Land Between excursion was due to leave at 09:00.

The first stop was the Chuk Lam "Bamboo Forest" Monastery (Photo HK-011), founded in 1927. It is one of the many impressive monasteries that have been established in the wooded foothills above Tsuen Wan. With the exception of the Big Buddha on Lantau, the monastery's three Buddha statues are the biggest in Hong Kong. Yeuk Si Fat and Amitabha, rulers of the Eastern and Western Paradise, sit either side of Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism.

Our penultimate stop before lunch was at the Sam Mun Tsai fishing village (Photo HK-012 and Photo HK-013).

Photo HK-011

Photo HK-012

Photo HK-013

Lunch was a very good Cantonese meal at the (now demolished) popular and well known Yucca de Lac Restaurant at Ma Liu Shui, where I successfully used chopsticks; although a fork was available as backup! We all sat at a large round table, with a rotating centre, where the numerous lunch portions were placed. By turning the centre around, we were able to take food from each of the platters.

It was during the lunch stop that I got talking to Leigh and Peter Sewell; on honeymoon from Brisbane (my target city of Australia). After writing their address and phone number on my menu, they asked me to call them after I had arrived in Brisbane. The tour ended on time at 15:00 back at the Holiday Inn.

With all the souvenirs and t-shirts that one accumulates on a journey, a second luggage bag soon became a requirement; as I'm sure all backpackers can confirm. So, I headed off to find a suitable shop on Hong Kong Island. However, after walking around for a while, I ended up buying a tuna sandwich and muffin (for HKD 36 (£3.00)).

After purchasing a phone card, as the public phones did not accept credit cards, I called Thatcham (20:10). All was OK; my son was to have private maths lessons. After the call, it was back to my rented 'box' to watch the Wimbledon Ladies' Tennis Final; Steffi Graf beat Jana Novotna 7-6, 1-6, 6-4.

Sunday, 04 - Jul - 1993

I woke up at 03:30 hallucinating again! This time, it was about who will look after my children tomorrow, as I will be leaving at 12:40 for Bangkok. "I must phone their mother to sort it out!" What's going on? Am I going crazy?!

Later that morning, I walked to the Tsim Sha Tsui Clock Tower (Photo HK-005), purely to watch the world sail past. After a while, I went for a walk eastwards along Salisbury Road and came across the Hong Kong Dragon Boat Championships. There were teams from Australia, Canada, China, New Zealand, the Philippines, etc.; see (Photo HK-014).

Photo HK-014

Photo HK-015

Photo HK-016

The heat was getting the better of me, so while hunting around for an air conditioned public building, I came across the Tokyu Department Store in Salisbury Road. Guess what! I ended coming out with a small back pack!

It was time to head back to Hong Kong Island and visit the western end of the tram line (Kennedy Town). On reaching the island, there was what appeared to be hundreds of Asian women, just sitting around. Anyway, I decided to "Go West Young Man!"

[Post Script: Twenty-three years later (Jul-2016), I took the Tokyu backpack (as a day bag) with me to Thailand, when I joined a marine conservation project. I have to say that, due to the high Thai humidity, plus the wet diving towel that I put in it, it ended up being covered in mould. Therefore, I decided to lay it to rest - in a rubbish bin at the Klong Heng Pier, in Ao Nang. RIP]

Upon arrival at Kennedy Town, I was greeted with the sight of more high-density apartments (Photo HK-015), similar to where my 'box' was located, in Kowloon! After having walked around for about fifteen minutes, noticing that there was nothing else to do or see (and having plenty of time to kill (it was 16:30)), I jumped onto the next departing tram, again, not knowing where it was going, but it trundled along Des Voeux Road (Photo HK-016). I stayed on it until it reached its destination - Happy Valley Racecourse - where it returned to Kennedy Town.

I eventually arrived back at Central and walked back to Pacific Place; a super new shopping mall. Although to-day was a Sunday, most of the shops (including the mall) were jam-packed with shoppers.

When I finally arrived back at the ferry terminal, the hundreds of women had increased (to thousands?)! Noticing an address on some of the luggage, they were from the Philippines. While waiting to call Thatcham, I noticed a number of Indian-looking people, but with virtually black skin! Where were they from, I wondered; Cameroon? I had to queue for approximately 45 minutes before getting to a phone, as the Philippine women were (presumably) calling home! When I finally got through, my son was crying. I thought it was because I wasn't there with him, but he had just had a(nother) bust up with his mother. My daughter was also crying because of the arguments between the other two. There was nothing I could do. I then called my parents. "Everything was OK here - it's hot and sticky!"

I ventured back to the 'box', where I wrote another postcard to the kiddies, then watched the Wimbledon Gentlemen's Tennis Final.

Monday, 05 - Jul - 1993

I didn't sleep much during the night, but at least I didn't have any further nightmares. I left for the airport (by bus) at 08:30. I thought checking in at 09:15 for a 12:40 flight was a bit early, so I waited until 10:00. To use the spare time, I went to the top of the (now demolished) airport car park (from where Photo HK-017 and Photo HK-018 were taken) to watch the various aircraft movements. My first impressions of Kai Tak Airport were: how well it was organised, and it's ingenuity (building the runway into the sea).

Photo HK-017

Photo HK-018

Back in the airport terminal, and while waiting to board my Thai Airways flight to Bangkok (with 30 to 40 minutes to spare), three other flights had their departure gates changed; and total confusion ensued! Boarding for my flight was completed by 12:15. The tourist section was about 25% occupied. We took off on-time at 12:40. Once airborne, the first job for the hostesses was to serve lunch.

The meal was quite something (even for the tourist section!). The starter was salmon, the main course was beef and potatoes and the desert was kiwi fruit and grapes. Red and white wine flowed like water; and to top it all, the meal was finished with a large expensive-looking cognac. I could have been mistaken, but I thought the bottle resembled the distinctive shape of Camus XO Elegance; take note, British Airways!

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Hong Kong Conclusions

A large proportion of the population (including children) had mobile phones! Hong Kong is a very busy city; both in respect of the land (people) and the water (boats). A high percentage of the women are very good looking! Kowloon and Hong Kong Island are like chalk and cheese.

As for my accommodation, despite being located where it was, the towel was changed daily and the bed sheet every two days; there must have been a real Chinese laundry nearby! The room had air conditioning (which in that part of the world, is a must!), a shower and a toilet (which was more than some of the other rooms had)! The whole apartment was, in fact, reasonably clean. The television programs were very much American influenced, even down to having adverts inserted at every possible moment; including commercial breaks between tennis sets! Very annoying! Please BBC, don't ever succumb to showing commercial adverts!

Twilight occured between 19:00 and 19:30.

Related Links: ------------------------ City View Hotel Hong Kong Tourism Board Hong Kong Directory Hong Kong Map Hong Kong Space Museum Welcome to GovHK YMCA of Hong Kong ------------------------ Chuk Lam Monastery Happy Valley Racecourse Hong Kong Tramways The Peak Tramway Star Ferry's Harbour Tour