Tuesday, 27 - Jul - 1993

The flight from Bali to Townsville took almost five hours. With Townsville being two hours ahead of Bali, we arrived at 06:00 local time. We departed Townsville at 07:15 and arrived in Cairns at 07:50. Rather than eat all of my on-board meal, I decided to keep my bread roll and butter for later. However, in honestly completing the immigration form, and stating that I was bringing an airline's bread roll and butter into Australia, I didn't realise the implications. Passing through immigration, I was directed to one side and interrogated about the food I was carrying.

I eventually cleared customs and immigration at 09:00; complete with my bread roll and butter! From the information desk, I booked myself into the Caravella Backpackers for seven days, at a cost of AUD 12.00 (£5.50) per night. As the next bus from the airport was due at 10:20, I took a taxi (AUD 8.60 (£3.94)). Caravella is (now) located at 149 The Esplanade, Cairns.

I felt great, knowing that I had quickly found somewhere to stay in yet another country. I ended up sharing a four-bedroomed room (complete with 'ensuite' toilet and shower) with a guy (named Arthur, from Nottinghamshire) and a girl, but she later left for another room. [I wonder why!]

Time to explore my first Australian town! Arthur and I go "walkabout" to see some of the sights. The Westpac Bank offered the best exchange rate (AUD 2.18 to the £1) with no commission. Also, remembering a conversation I had in Bangkok, I booked myself onto a five-day SCUBA diving course, starting Thursday, costing AUD 380.00 (£174.31) with Down Under Dive.It is possible that Down Under Dive is now known as Down Under Cruise and Dive.

We got back at about 19:00 for a freshen up, then we hit the town. We ended up in a night club during happy hour (until 21:00). A jug of beer (approximately four glasses) cost AUD 5.00 (£2.29). We got back to the room at 23:00, where a Swiss-German couple had taken the other two bunks.

Wednesday, 28 - Jul - 1993

I woke up at 08:30 and decided that one of my first activities was to wash my big, thick white towel and other clothes. For the first time in a while, I had access to hot water; and it was hot! As soon as I put the clothes into the tub, the dirt and suntan lotion could be seen coming out! I then transferred the clothes to the washing machine for a proper wash cycle, then onto the line to dry; they really looked clean now; especially the white towel!

I left Caravella and visited The Pier; a collection of little boutiques in a common complex - where I bought a pasty for lunch, AUD 2.20 (£1.00); see Photo AU-001, Photo AU-002, Photo AU-003, and Photo AU-004.

Photo AU-001

Photo AU-002

Photo AU-003

Photo AU-004

I then walked into the centre of town to do a bit more shopping: six postcards, a bottle of fresh milk (my nectar!), orange juice and a tub of Yoplait yoghurt! I found a place that was selling towels for AUD 3.00 (£1.38) each. I bought two for the diving course, to save using my good one. Unfortunately, without realising it, I left my camera in the shop. A period of time elapsed before I realised it was missing. When I returned to the shop, some kind, honest person had (fortunately) handed it in! Who was a lucky boy then!

Back at Caravella, a third person in the room (Toufiq (from Paris)) had booked himself onto the same diving course, starting tomorrow.

Thursday, 29 - Jul - 1993

We were picked up from the hostel and taken to a doctor for a medical examination (costing AUD 28.00 (£12.84)), to ascertain whether we were fit to dive. Much to our surprise, we all passed; a nice little earner for the doctor! From the doctor, we were taken to Down Under Dive's classroom. After checking in, lunch was an AUD 1.50 (£0.69) BBQ, comprising sausages, onions and a bread roll.

After lunch, we got kitted out with a wet suit, mask, fins, regulator and tank. We were divided into two groups, allocated a buddy (my buddy was Toufiq from Paris!) and directed into the pool, where the real tuition began. That day, we finished at 16:45.

Toufiq and I decided to go and buy some food and cook it in the hostel's kitchen (steak, pasta and corn, all for AUD 5.60 (£2.57) each), enough for two meals - today and tomorrow. I finished off the day with a couple of beers with Arthur in the Fox and Firkin (39 Lake Street). Then it was back to the pit; I was to be picked up at 08:00 tomorrow morning.

Friday, 30 - Jul - 1993

We were eventually picked up at 08:30 and taken to the pool where we got kitted out again to carry on with our tuition in the pool. After lunch, we were in the classroom to learn how to use the diving charts. It took some getting used to, but I fathomed it out (no pun intended!). We all took a test as a group, rather than individually; it had its advantages - and (obvious) disadvantages.

I arrived back at Caravella at 17:45 and decided to attend a 'Reef Teach' session at 18:15, but not before phoning Thatcham to see how things were. [My daughter had fractured her big toe by hitting it on the stairs yesterday! My son was spending the night with Danny; they were going fishing early tomorrow morning.] The Reef Teach session was very informative; well worth the AUD 10.00 (£4.59) admission fee.

I arrived back at the hostel at 20:50. My meal was cooked, but cold. It was still good though. I called my parents at Slough, then Annette and Dave (my optician) for my lens prescription. I didn't realise, but the plain glass used in a diving mask can be replaced with lenses, if required. In the end, I didn't really need a lensed mask. Then it was off to the Fox and Firkin (again) for a small beer (or three!). I finally got to bed at 23:45.

Saturday, 31 - Jul - 1993 to Monday, 02 - Aug - 1993

After waking at 06:15 in anticipation of today's activities, I was ready (including having had a breakfast) by 07:00. Rather than taking my main backpack with me for the period out on the reef, I was able to leave it at the hostel.

I was picked up at 07:10, eventually arriving at Yorkey's Knob (about 13 kms north of Cairns), at 08:10, from where we set sail for the parent boat. At 11:40, after a gentle and sunny trip, we arrived alongside Reeftrek (Photo AU-005), our home for the next three days. We were directed to our respective cabins; I shared with two American guys (Scott and David). As I was the first into the room, I had first choice of where to sleep! I chose the single bed in favour of the bunk beds.

Then it was time for lunch; we were all quite hungry by this time. As expected (for an activity that consumes a lot of energy), pasta was one of the selections. After a good lunch, we were all invited to get kitted out and prepare for our first dive (at 14:30); see Photos AU-006 through to AU-009.

Photo AU-005	Photo AU-006	Photo AU-007
Photo AU-008	Photo AU-009	Photo AU-010
Photo AU-011	Photo AU-012	Photo AU-013

The rest of the day, and all of Sunday and Monday were spent on board Reeftrek, diving and snorkelling. If my memory serves me correctly (when updating this page many years later), we had one dive on Saturday, three dives on Sunday (Photo AU-010 - at Norman Reef - this location is ideal for snorkelling) and a night dive, after which, we moved to the North Hastings Reef, for our last dive, on Monday. We were also given the option of having one of our daylight dives filmed, which I agreed to do.

Tuesday, 03 - Aug - 1993

Back on dry land, I woke up at 08:30, but decided to stay horizontal until 09:45, when I got up, showered, and washed some clothes. My next priority was to get to the post office to send the VHS video tape, and two 35 mm films back to the U.K.; costing AUD 10.00 (£4.59). I deposited a third film (of Bangkok and Pucket) for processing, at a local chemist, to be ready for 17:30. That afternoon, I wrote two more postcards; one to The Drum in Bruxelles and the other to Skippy's parents in Brisbane.

I recalled someone on board the Reeftrek saying that the Tuesday edition of The Australian newspaper contained a supplement with I.T. jobs. Having found and bought a copy (AUD 0.70 (£0.32)), I made my way to the esplanade to read it. After realising that there was nothing suitable for me, I went to do some food shopping and bumped into Albert (not literally!). He and I decided to have a try our hand at kayaking on Thursday, which we will book tomorrow. Incidentally, due to the variety of activities available in Cairns, I had been thinking about extending my stay, possibly by one week!

I freshened up and set off for Magnums for a meet-up at 20:00 and jugs of beer for AUD 3.00 (£1.38). Actually, the price must have been for happy hour at 18:00, as they had gone up to AUD 5.00 (£2.29)! I had a good meal (spare ribs (AUD 4.00)) with Frank and two girls from Manchester. I retired to my pit by 23:30.

Wednesday, 04 - Aug - 1993

I awoke at 08:10, and after completing some necessary domestic chores (washing clothes), went with Alfred to book tomorrow's kayak trip. I then took the 11:45 beach bus to Palm Cove (Photo AU-014), returning at 16:45. Upon my return to Cairns, I booked a three-day trip to Cape Tribulation; the place where the tropical rain forest meets the Great Barrier Reef.

For my evening meal, I was going to go to Magnums, but ended up at Samuels (on the corner of Hartley Street and Lake Street, which (in the year 2019) was a giant car park!). On the menu was Shepherd's Pie, chips, vegetables and salad bar, all for AUD 3.50 (£1.60). Once the food was out of the way, our diving instructor (Richard Webb, extreme left in Photo AU-016) suggested we play some pub games! One game involved passing a piece of paper or card from one person to the next (around the table), without using our hands, nor dropping it. The only way to pass it between ourselves was to place it on our lips, and suck, by breathing in; see Photo AU-015. If it was dropped, the forfeit was to drink more alcohol! Obviously, those that dropped it the most, drank the most - and the more alcohol that was drunk, the more the individual dropped the paper or card!!! A typical Catch-22 scenario!

Another 'trick' was to ignite some spirit (I can't remember which alcohol) in a glass, and then put one's hand over the glass. As can be seen in Photo AU-016, the glasses 'stuck' to the hand. [As the flame burns, it consumes the oxygen in the glass, causing a vacuum. As no air (or oxygen) can get into the glass, the pressure inside the glass decreases and the glass 'sticks' to the skin.]

Photo AU-014

Photo AU-015

Photo AU-016

Whilst playing a few games of pool, Mark (another instructor at Down Under Dive ) made an appearance. He said that there was some chaos on the Reeftrek; no staff! If I was interested, I was to call into the office next Monday and see if any help was required; filling gas tanks, etc. 'Payment' was free food and a daily dive. I eventually retired to my pit at 00:30, thinking about the possible job.

Thursday, 05 - Aug - 1993

I was up at 08:30 because Alfred and I were going kayaking down the Russell River with Foaming Fury. After being picked up at 09:40, we arrived at our first stop (at 11:15) for lunch; a tray of sandwiches for each person. We then continued our journey for another thirty minutes, to our riverside destination.

Access to the river was via a 40-50 minutes trek along a Ngajanji tribal path. Whilst walking along the track, we were treated to a botanical learning session:

• The Queensland walnut trees are harmless to women, but have a particular effect on men; after being touched, they apparently cause the testicles to become very large and painful [not verified!]
• Mites live in the bark of trees and can transfer themselves into the skin of humans, causing a spiral rash
• The Stinging Tree (Dendrocnide moroides) extracts silicone from the soil to create minute glass tubes (hairs) filled with a neurotoxin. If the stems or heart-shaped leaves are touched, the hairs get stuck on the skin, which can then be accompanied with severe pain (for weeks!); a definite hospital job, or use of a wax strip!
• We also saw giant ferns that were three metres in diameter!

We finally reached the river, inflated our rafts, and set off. Although we received a good dunking going down a small waterfall, it was a good 2½-3 hours to the end. We arrived back at the hostel at about 17:30.

A few of us agreed to eat at The End of the World. Lasagne was AUD 3.50 (£1.60). After the meal, we left for the Fox and Firkin, then on to Magnums. I got back to my pit at 23:30.

Friday, 06 - Aug - 1993

I awoke at 06:50 and ready by 07:20 for my trip to Cape Tribulation. The minibus arrived at 07:45 and eventually left Cairns at 08:20; minus two passengers.

We made our first refreshment stop (10:30-11:00) at Mossman, QLD. We then made our way to the Daintree Eco Centre (now known as the Daintree Discovery Centre), where we saw flying foxes/fruit bats (see Photo AU-017), numerous butterflies, two emus and a crocodile. We boarded a boat for a one-hour river cruise down the Daintree River, where crocodiles, tree snakes, other wildlife and plants were seen.

We arrived at Cape Tribulation at 14:00 and then shown to our dormitories; Photo AU-018 and Photo AU-019. New guests were requested to meet at 15:30 for baseball, rounders and football on the beach (until 17:00). Happy hour was from 18:00 to 19:00 (an actual hour!) where a jug of beer (1.14 ml) cost AUD 5.50 (£2.52). I ordered a vegetarian pizza (for the same price as a jug of beer) and received a coupon for a free glass (pot) of beer!

Pool was only AUD 1.00 per game here (cheaper than in Cairns), so I arranged a tab at the food and drink bar, in order to conserve my cash; and thus allow me to play rather a lot of pool! There was a jungle dress competition, in which the winner won a free waterfall trip.

I eventually got to bed at midnight.

Photo AU-017

Photo AU-018

Photo AU-019

The dormitories were set out in three levels, with five beds on the bottom level, four beds on the middle level and two beds on the top level (in the top of the roof). Fortunately, no-one was sleeping in the top beds; there were no steps to them! If one should be taken short during the night, it was an interesting (and perhaps embarassing) journey down; to avoid the sleeping bodies!

Saturday, 07 - Aug - 1993

I awoke to the sound of a kookaburra - an absolutely amazing sound - especially when it was the first time! Although this was the tropics, the morning was overcast and a bit cold. Mind you, it was Australia's winter! I was glad I had brought my sleeping bag! A hot shower did the trick!

The grounds had its fair share of 'wild' animals: a peacock, a peahen and a partridge casually strolled around, looking for food; and quite healthy they looked too! Apparently, there was also a healthy-looking rat in the area; complete with a shiny coat!

On walking down the road to the general store, I met Dame Edna Everage. Well, she certainly looked and sounded like her. The only difference was that the real Dame Edna is polite; this dragon wasn't! At the store, I bought a banana, a Mars bar and a 600 ml carton of milk, all for AUD 2.50 (£1.15). With breakfast finished, I wanted to walk to the cape, but the route was too muddy.

Photo AU-020

After lunch, the cloud started breaking up, and in the sun, it was quite hot! With what was happening weather-wise, I decided to change and go and spend some time on the beach. Once the cloud had disappeared, it turned out to be a very nice afternoon, complete with a cooling on-shore breeze. I returned to the lodge at about 17:00 and someone suggested having an evening beach camp fire. With that idea in mind, a few of us set off along the path to the beach (Photo AU-020) to collect a supply of drift wood.

We arrived back at 18:45 in time for a beer and T-bone steak with salad. I felt doubtful about going to the beach as it was cold; I was frozen. After being persuaded, I donned a second T-shirt and placed a blanket over my shoulders. At 20:00 we set off for the beach with one small torch and two cigarette lighters (to guide us through the total darkness). However, with no light polution, so many stars, including the Milky Way, were visible.

We dug a large hole in the sand, screwed up some newspaper, lay some small dry pieces of wood on top, lit the touch paper and waited! After a bit of coaxing, we ended up with a roaring wooden fire; and for the first time that evening, I felt warm. So good was the fire, it attracted other beach combers to come and warm up!

Another amazing event commenced while we were on the beach. The moon started rising over the ocean's horizon; what a sight! As it got higher, it started producing shadows. When we finally left the beach at 23:30, we didn't need any torchlight assistance, as the moon was so bright. [The moon was last full on Monday, 02-Aug-1993 12:11 GMT.]

Sunday, 08 - Aug - 1993

This was a do-nothing day, as it was my departure day. I started off by popping down to the general store for breakfast: banana and milk. Weather-wise, it was a fair day, with some clouds, which soon burnt off. With the good weather, and for my last few hours, I lazed around on the grass until it was time to go; 14:00. For those of us returning to Cairns, it was decided that we meet at Brambys this evening.

Photo AU-021

We arrived at Port Douglas at 16:30 and I decided to visit the aquarium. After taking a few photographs of fish, I saw a sign that read "No Flash". Oops!

Back at the port, there were two Quicksilver Seacats tied up (see Photo AU-021). We were given the option of travelling back to Cairns via one of the Seacats (for AUD 10.00), but having used the Hoverspeed Seacats between Calais and Dover (comically nicknamed the Vomit Comets!) on numerous occassions, I decided to remain on the minibus, finally arriving back at the hostel at 18:10. Once back, I extended my stay by another two nights; through to Wednesday morning.

I phoned the U.K. at 19:30. My daughter and Dana were out, and my son was going fishing with Daniel. The video tape arrived Friday! It took three days; that's not bad!

We didn't get to Bramleys, as it was closed. Instead, we ended up at The End of the World, where we had free beer at 22:00! I got back to my pit at 22:45.

Monday, 09 - Aug - 1993

After doing more 'domestic chores', I sent a card of Cape Tribulation to Thatcham, then made my way to the railway station to enquire about times and fares to Brisbane. Well, the Queenslander takes 31 hours and cost AUD 123 (£56.37) on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and AUD 489 (£224.13) on Tuesdays.

I headed over to Down Under Dive and, sure enough, one member of staff had called in sick. Subject to him not returning early, I was asked if I would be interested in filling air tanks onboard the Reeftrek, for a possible period of four weeks, for which I would receive all meals and two dives per day. I was interested, but felt I couldn't wait to see if/when the sick staff member would return, so declined and left.

I passed Trackers and "the Brummies". After a quick chat, I walked to the bus station for times and fares to Brisbane; it takes 24 hours and cost AUD 104 by McCafferty's (now known as Greyhound Australia). I decided to take the bus, as I thought I'd see more of Queensland. I planned to call Skippy's parents this evening about my travel plans.

For lunch on the Pier, I had a sausage roll AUD 1.50 (£0.69) and apple strudel (Apfelstrudel) AUD 1.80 (£0.83). I saw "the Brummies" again, but this time, they had hired a soft-top VW Beetle! We arranged to meet in The End of the World at 18:00.

That evening, I had steak pie, chips and salad to eat and an AUD 4.00 (£1.83) jug of beer. No-one had arrived by 18:50, so I started on the beer! At 19:20, I was just on the point of leaving when "the boys" arrived. They had something to eat and then we left. I called Skippy's parents to say that I will confirm my time of arrival, and was told "You can stay with us". Back to The End of the World where there was free beer from 22:00. I returned to the hostel and was in bed by 22:30, where a German couple and I chatted for about an hour.

Tuesday, 10 - Aug - 1993

I was up at 06:45 for my day's trip to Karunda and the Atherton Tablelands. I was collected at 07:40, and taken to the railway station, from where I/we left on the 08:30 train, on the Karunda Scenic Railway; all very exciting!

During the day, I found myself sitting next to a retired Briton who, despite having lived, and is still living, in New Zealand for the past 40 years, still had his British accent! We had an interesting chat.

The following six photographs (of the Kuranda Scenic Railway, the Curtain Fig Tree at Yungaburra, and three different water falls) were taken during the tour.

Photo AU-022	Photo AU-023	Photo AU-024
Photo AU-025	Photo AU-026	Photo AU-027

I arrived back at the hostel at 18:20; there was a new kid in the room. We decided to go and eat at The End of the World. When passing Reception, Arthur said he'd join us shortly. After I again had steak and vegetable pie AUD 3.50 (£1.60), "the boys" came in (from Magnums) for their free meal.

I called Michael (in Brisbane) to confirm that I will be arriving at Brisban's Transit Centre on Thursday afternoon at 16:45. After returning to the hostel, Arthur and I went for free beer at The End of the World, at 21:45. It cost us AUD 2.00 for a our first beer, but we ended up having three free glasses, so the evening paid for itself. I got back to the hostel at 23:15.

Wednesday, 11 - Aug - 1993

I woke up at 07:45. For breakfast, I had my last banana and the remainder of some orange juice. I packed my bags, checked out, and went to the bank. Having £620 and USD 1,100, I decided to change £100; into AUD 216.00.

From the bank, I made my way over to the bus station, where I checked in (at 10:15), and was allocated seat 2A. Before leaving Cairns, I had to have a last-minute mini period of shopping therapy (spending spree), so I bought three 'Hard Croc Cafe' T-shirts to send, with other 'stuff', back to the UK. At the post office, I noticed a selection of strong envelopes; less weight than a box! I rushed back to Caravella, thinking that I had left my Foaming Fury T-shirts behind, but they were in my backpack all the time! So I returned to the post office and sent four T-shirts and my credit card slips, at a cost of AUD 26.00 (£12.04).

After popping into Woolworths to buy supplies for the journey (milk and cake), I had arranged to meet Arthur at 12:00 for lunch at The Pier. He had roast pork in a bun, while I had roast port (with crackling!) and vegetables; AUD 6.95 (£3.22).

After exchanging addresses (at 13:20), we strolled over to the bus station and said our Goodbyes. The bus left at 14:00 and I ended up having some over-sized reprobate sitting next to me, wearing a large hat (but without dangling corks!), who, after a while, fell asleep, taking as much room as possible. That was, until I stopped him!

Once on the road, our driver (sorry, Bus Captain!) announced that he was (only) taking us as far as Townsville. En route, there were miles of roadworks; all part of the construction of the Bruce Highway; the Queensland portion of the Australian National Highway.

Once we arrived at Townsville, the over-sized reprobate thankfully woke up and got off the bus! Phew! We set off at 20:00 with a new bus captain - as far as Rockhampton - and I had the two seats to myself; relief!. If I were to visit Townsville again, I would want (need?) to visit Magic Island. I was not impressed with the town when we flew in from Bali, but having seen more of the town at ground level, rather than just the airport, it didn't look as bad as I had originally thought.

Although I had my sleeping bag with me, I didn't need it. However, I did ask the driver to turn down the air conditioning, which he did. There was still a bit of a draught from the window (because of a missing screw), so at our next stop, I bought some tissues and stuffed them into the gap. During the night, there were a few more stops, but I managed to get a few hours sleep.

Related Links: ------------------------ Cape Tribulation Cape Tribulation Accommodation Cairns Accommodation Directory Great Barrier Reef Drive Caravella Backpackers Tourism & Events Queensland Down Under Cruise&Dive ------------------------ Malanda Falls Millaa Millaa Falls Millaa Millaa Falls [Wikipedia] Mungalli Falls ------------------------ Curtain Fig Tree Rainforest-Australia Rainforest Plants Stinging Tree Stinging Tree [Wikipedia]