Botswana and Cape Town

Sunday, 09-Oct-2016

Some weeks ago, Jo wanted, and offered, to take us to his local church (in Mathathane), but due to other circumstances, it didn't happen, until today. Jo asked us (out of respect) to wear long trousers and something to cover our arms; which is not easy when you pack clothes for the African bush! But we did. When he appeared to take us to Mathathane, he looked very smart; immaculately dressed in a uniform! On our way, he spotted a dead snake on the road (Photo BW-148)!

When we arrived at the church, I expected to see a physical building, but there was nothing except an outline (created from white rocks) indicating the perimeter of the planned church, inside a compound-like area! It's not very clear from the photo, but the church area can just be made out in Photo BW-149. I was told that an actual building is planned for the far right-hand corner of the church area.

While I was waiting for the service to start, a child passed by the church, pushing what I guess was a toy; a shaped wire frame, with four coke tins as wheels (Photo BW-150)! Give that to a child in the U.K. (or other countries!) and (s)he will probably tell you shove it where the sun doesn't shine, and then return to his/her smart phone or (tablet) computer!

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After the service, we made our way back to the camp, but not before passing a typical village house (Photo BW-151) and Botswana's amazing slogan: United and Proud, as seen painted on the side of a large tank, at the side of the road (Photo BW-152).

At the junction with the road to Bobonong, more white and blue stones had been arranged (Photo BW-153) to provide an unusual welcome sign.

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Closer to the camp, we stopped to admire another herd of elephants (Photo BW-154). A lot of the adult elephants had their trunks in the air. It is quite possible that they could hear and smell us, but not necessarily see us. Once we were back at the camp, it was my last chance to see an African bush sunset (Photo BW-155).

The day ended with a special and very pleasant surprise. We had been invited to Helena's home (by both Helena and Judi) for evening dinner, but not everyone knew about it! Esteban was very curious as to what was going on.

After we had got into the Land Cruiser, and were about to depart, Jo told Esteban that lions had been sighted near Helena's house, and we had been invited over to see them. He was so excited, he rushed off to get his binoculars (or was it a torch (or both)?). It was not until we had been greeted by, and introduced to, everyone at Helena's house, that Jo told Esteban that he made up the story about the lions as a joke!

To show that they were very grateful for the help we had given in tackling the bush fires, Helena and Judi invited us for an evening dinner as a "Thank you" (Photo BW-156). And a lovely evening it was too. However, I'm sure I embarrassed myself because it was the first time, in more than two months, that I had drunk any alcohol (wine) and it went straight to my head!

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Monday, 10-Oct-2016

Today's project (for me): Packing!

Although I could have participated in this morning's activity, I needed to pack my bags; and take a few last photographic memories. The first was of the young Acacia tree near the camp fire (Photo BW-157), the second was a closeup of its thorns (Photo BW-158)! A few weeks ago, I passed this tree a bit too close, and it caught and tore one of my T-shirts. While trying to free myself, I ended up with the tip of a thorn in one of my fingers. I thought I had 'dug it out', but it was painful for a week or two after! My last photo to be taken in Botswana was of the Motswiri camp (Photo BW-159), taken from beside the bird bath.

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My departure (at 12:45) was an emotional one. Jens drove me to the Botswanan border post at Platjan and then across the Limpopo River to the South African border post. Both passport formalities were completed quickly without any problems. No sooner had I finished at the South African bureau, my onward transport (to Polokwane airport) arrived; perfect timing! Leaving Platjan and saying "Goodbye" to Jens (at 13:45) was another emotional moment for me.

I've said it many times before, and I'll continue saying it: "I Hate Goodbyes"!

Goodbye Botswana - Hello South Africa

At 14:30, a refreshment stop was made in the town of Alldays. Once on the road agin, we passed the western edge of the Soutpansberg Mountain Range (see Photo ZA-001 and Photo ZA-002), near Vivo, which I didn't notice going in the opposite direction five weeks earlier! At 15:45, after my initial arrival in South Africa, I was back in the extremely busy concourse of Polokwane International Airport (see Photo ZA-003), for my 18:00 flight to Johannesburg.

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I arrived at Johannesburg's O. R. Tambo International Airport just after 19:00 and departed for Cape Town an hour later, arriving at Cape Town airport at 22:30. As I had a late hotel arrival, I was concerned about getting a 'bogus' taxi to my hotel. So with help from Helena (at the Motswiri camp), a trustworthy taxi was waiting for me. Even though it was dark, the taxi driver pointed out various landmarks to me (between the airport and my destination hotel), including a very large township (just before entering Cape Town centre) and Table Mountain.

Upon arriving outside the Park Inn by Radisson (in Heerengracht Street, Forefront) at about 23:30, a full bus was already parked outside, offloading its passengers into the same hotel. I thought my check-in would take ages, but thanks to Lonke (a member of the Reception Desk staff), I was in my top-floor room efficiently and very quickly.

[Incidentally, when I was working in Amsterdam a few years earlier, I stayed in an apartment alongside Herengracht (the Lord's Canal)!]

Wow! A comfortable bed - and no sleeping bag! After five weeks in the bush, this was absolute Heaven!

Tuesday, 11-Oct-2016

I woke up after having had an excellent night's sleep. Breakfast was the best I had had in many weeks - if not months! I started with muesli and proper fresh milk (not long-life (plastic) milk!), followed by a fresh fruit salad, washed down with a glass of fresh orange juice.

Suitably fuelled up, I was out of the hotel and on the street! My priority was to obtain some local currency (ZA Rand). To get me started, I changed the few Thai Baht (I had from my trip to Thailand (in July)) at the nearby Nedbank, then I was off to explore, in the light rain!

I started by following signs to the Victoria and Alfred (V&A) Waterfront. On my way, I passed an impressive-looking building, which turned out to be the Cullinan Hotel (Photo ZA-004) and a part of a shipyard, where a pair of Chinese boats were being refurbished. It wasn't until I turned my head further round that I caught my first sight of Table Mountain; albeit shrouded in cloud (sometimes described as its tablecloth) and partially obscured by the two ships in the shipyard (Photo ZA-005).

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Next on my walk, I came across the V&A Waterfront Clock Tower (Photo ZA-006). To the right of the clock tower (out of view in the photo) is a swing footbridge that divides the outer harbour (Victoria Basin) and the inner harbour (Alfred Basin). While I was there, it closed to allow a yacht to pass into the Alfred Basin. Once the swing footbridge had reopened, and being lunchtime, it was interesting (amusing, no less!) to see those members of the public (that had been delayed by the bridge's closure) run and jostle in both directions across it, narrowly avoiding each other!

After walking along the northern side of the harbour, with a view of Table Mountain across Alfred Basin (Photo ZA-007), I came across Nobel Square, where statues of South Africa's Four Nobel Peace Prize Laureates stand: (from left to right) Albert Luthuli, Desmond Tutu, FW de Klerk and Nelson Mandela (Photo ZA-008). An information board nearby describes what the four men did to get their award.

My stomach was telling me something, so before studying the information board, I went into (what was called) the Market on the Wharf. It is an amazing place (particularly when one is hungry!), where one can purchase many different kinds of food. Wanting something sweet and energy-giving, I went back to For the Love of Yummyness (located near the entrance), and had a Banana and Nutella Crêpe (Photo ZA-009). Yummy!

Note: After initally writing this page, I learned that Nutella contains a large percentage (>50%) of Vegetable Oil - or more specifically Palm Oil - obtained from what were tropical rain forests! Thus, my consumption of Nutella has ceased!

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On my way back to the hotel, I had a view of Signal Hill (Photo ZA-010) from across Alfred Basin. I passed the shipyard again. By now, two men were using a small 'cherry-picker' hoist (Fr: grue) to paint the ship's name and number (Photo ZA-011). It isn't clear from the photo, but they had made several attempts (by over painting) to get its number correct - from 623 to 625; the 'sister' ship was numbered 623. When I got back to the hotel, I went up to Harald’s Bar & Terrace on the 11th floor. By this time, the cloud had started to lift from the top of Table Mountain (Photo ZA-012), revealing its straight and horizontal summit. Before leaving to explore more, I couldn't help noticing the cleanliness and tidiness of the surrounding area: Hertzog Boulevard (Photo ZA-013) and the lower end of Heerengracht Street (Photo ZA-014), with the Media24 building between the two roads.

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I left the hotel and around a few corners, entered Long Street, with its bookshops, restaurants and bars. One of the two City Sightseeing offices (in Cape Town) is at 81 Long Street. From there, I found myself walking along Government Avenue (in the Company's Garden). Although the garden is at ground level, it reminded me, in a strange way, of the Viaduc des Arts/Coulée verte René-Dumont in Paris [see also the Gare de Lyon link on my France page]. Returning to the hotel, I passed the entrance to the Mount Nelson Hotel (Photo ZA-015) and back along Long Street.

A number of the buildings, with their wrought iron façades (Photo ZA-016), reflect their colonial past. At the top end of Wale Street (Photo ZA-017), towards Signal Hill, is the Bo Kaap Neighbourhood. The houses in this area of Cape Town are all painted in different colours. One (lovely) story is that, when slaves lived there, they weren't allowed to wear colourful clothes. Following the end of apartheid, the residents celbrated their freedom by painting the outside of their houses in different colours.

Wednesday, 12-Oct-2016

Having located the City Sightseeing office yesterday, I returned to it this morning, but not before admiring a water fountain, with Table Mountain in the background (Photo ZA-018). The sightseeing company had an arrangement with Cape Town Helicopters (at GPS: S33° 54' 03.50" E18° 25' 33.25"). After pondering whether I should go for it (or not), and seeing as it could be a birthday present to myself, I went downstairs and booked myself onto a Two Oceans Scenic Flight for 09:00 tomorrow morning; with a pick-up from the hotel at 08:30! With this particular flight, passengers receive a complimentary City Sightseeing Bus Ticket. The main objective I had (while in Cape Town), was to go to the summit of Table Mountain (as my father had done during World War II)! I wanted to attempt to walk up and not take the cable car, so off I set! Besides, I had nothing else to do, until about 18:00.

The Red Route buses stopped at the lower cable car station; Stop 7 on the Bus Route Map. Therefore, I hopped on board the next Red Route bus, as I wanted to save my energy for the walk up the mountain. Plus, as it turned out, walking all the way to the lower cable car station was potentially dangerous, because there are no pavements (Fr: trottoirs) along Tafelberg Road to the cable car station (see Photo ZA-019).

After arriving at Stop 7 (the lower cable car station), I wanted to see Cape Town from up here (approximately 300 metres above mean sea level), so a few metres below the station, I took Photo ZA-020.

I was pleased that I had already decided to walk up the mountain, because the two queues for the cable car (one for those with tickets and one for those without tickets) were very long (Photo ZA-021)!

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I had already been informed that the quickest walking route was via the Platteklip Gorge. Thus, I set off from the lower cable car station at 10:45. There were signs advising walkers what to wear (for example, good walking boots), what to have with you (sun cream and water), and not to walk on your own. Well, that last item was a bit difficult for me! However, I wasn't the only person walking up today, so if anything did happen, I was sure that someone would be able to stop and help.

I soon caught up with a family of three (mother, father and an 8-year-old daughter), possibly from the U.K. We all stopped for a rest, a chat and a drink; we needed to! The parents had done this walk before their daughter was born. As they were on holiday in Cape Town, they decided to see if they could do it again - but this time, with their daughter.

I took several photos on my way up, including: about to leave Tafelberg Road to take the Platteklip Gorge path (Photo ZA-022), a side view of Lion's Head and Signal Hill (Photo ZA-023), Cape Town from a height of about 600 metres (Photo ZA-024), a view up the gorge, from about 700 metres (Photo ZA-025), and at the top of the gorge from an altitude of about 900 metres (Photo ZA-026).

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As I progressed higher up the gorge, I passed other walkers, resting. However, I had to take longer rest periods the higher I went (totally unfit for this 'adventure'). In doing so, some of those same walkers (and others) that I had passed lower down, passed me! There were also walkers coming down, some of whom had an amusing sense of humour, saying "Not far to the top". Not very funny when you are only half way up! Still, it kept me going. When, some minutes later, I asked someone coming down "How much further?", he replied "It is just up there and through the gap". And he was right!

At 13:00, I reached the summit! Although I was exhausted, the sense of achievement was overwhelming! The cloud had increased and thus the visibility was somewhat limited; as can be seen in Photo ZA-029.

The temperature at the summit was +9°C, which helped to cool me down. I walked around for about an hour, taking photographs (as and when the cloud allowed), including one of Cape Town (Photo ZA-033) and a panoramic view of Lion Head, Signal Hill and (in the distance) Robben Island (Photo ZA-035). A few metres from the upper cable car terminal, is an information plate about The Island (see Photo ZA-034).

Note: If the text in Photo ZA-034 is difficult to read, click this link to show/hide a transcript.

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For my return route, I took the quick and easy way down - via the cable car! Moments after leaving the summit, something unexpected happened. The inside of the cable car started rotating, thereby giving all passengers a complete 360° view! Amazing!

Descent of Table Mountain
[4 minutes, 00 seconds]

Once I had reached the bottom, I boarded a waiting Red Route bus, and completed the tour (via Camps Bay and Clifton back to Cape Town's V&A Waterfront. I had about three hours to spare, so I hopped onto a waiting Blue Route bus, to see the other side of the mountain; via Kirstenbosch, Constantia and Hout Bay.

Upon reaching the Constantia Nek Restaurant (Photo ZA-040), I wanted to change and take the Purple Wine Tour through the vineyards. However, after looking at the timetable, it occured to me that I didn't have enough time. Tant Pis! So I stayed on the bus, returning to Cape Town via Hout Bay, Llandudno (named after the town with the same name in North Wales), and Ouderkraal before rejoining the Red Route at Camps Bay.

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Before leaving the U.K for this adventure, it was suggested I have a meal at Panama Jacks (a sea food restaurant) while I was in Cape Town. I had a table booked for 19:00, which was the reason I had to get back. Although it was within 'reasonable' walking distance from the hotel, I arranged a taxi to take me (which was just as well). The restaurant is located inside the docks. All traffic (either entering or leaving the docks) has to pass through a security control post.

The restaurant is quite impressive inside, having a sea theme. The tables have copies of old French and British nautical maps, while the ceiling is adorned with flags from many nations. It was mentioned that live lobsters swim in fish tanks, but from what I saw, the tanks were empty. When I was finally presented with the menu, I asked to see the wine list. The 'waiter' said "I am the wine list. What would you like?". I was stuck for words because I didn't have a crystal ball showing me what wines were available. I think I simply went with a glass of wine that he suggested.

My Starter (Chardonnay Mussels) arrived very quickly, which I couldn't understand how! Even so, it was excellent. For the main course (I can't remember what it was) I requested a second glass of wine from the 'walking wine list', but it never arrived. It was obvious that as more and more patrons (clientèle) entered and were guided to their tables, the more serving the 'walking wine list' had to do; and this was mid-week! What would it be like at weekends?!

My Restaurant Conclusion: Even though it is a bit out of the way (and behind a security control), it is a nice restaurant, with excellent food. But (and it is a big but), the service was poor. Oh yes, one more thing: my booked taxi to take me back to my hotel was given to someone else! When I eventually got back to the hotel (and the bar - for a beer!), I was informed that Panama Jacks was a 4-star restaurant; but not on this particular evening!

The commentary on the City Sightseeing buses mentioned the 'must see' Groote Shuur Hospital Museum, where Christiaan Barnard performed the world's first heart transplant operation in 1967. I'm sure that would be very interesting. So before retiring to my room, I asked at Reception if a visit to the museum could be arranged for tomorrow afternoon.

Thursday, 13-Oct-2016

I had an earlier than usual breakfast, because I was collected from the hotel at 08:30 for my pleasure helicopter flight around Cape Town! Being in the centre of the city, I imagined the traffic would be heavy at this time of morning. But no! There were no bouchons! After checking-in and being weighed, I was escorted to the departure lounge, where an English couple were already waiting. We realised that we were almost neighbours back home! [They live about 30 minutes from where I live!] Once the final two passengers (a couple from Germany) had arrived, we were shown a safety video. Steve, the pilot, came in and introduced himself, then escorted us to the helicopter. As I was on my own, I was offered to sit in the left-hand front seat! Woohoo!

The following fifteen photos were taken during the flight.

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The flight ended at 09:40, after about 27 minutes. We were given a receipt and a complimentary City Sightseeing bus ticket! Although it wasn't far to walk, the British couple and I were driven to the V&A Waterfront, where we talked about Robben Island. They said that they had visted the island, and the prison, and found it very emotional! We said Goodbye, wishing each other a pleasant flight back home tomorrow (they were flying with British Airways, while I was with South African Airways) and went our separate ways.

I walked along Quay 6, as far as the Camelot Spa Table Bay Hotel. I couldn't go any farther (without entering the hotel), so I turned around. On my way back, I stopped at the Robben Island Jetty Exhibition. With the comments from the British couple still in my mind, knowing what I did about Nelson Mandela's occupancy, and seeing what was on display at this exhibition, I came to a firm decision about Robben Island. Although a part of me wanted to visit the island, a larger part of me didn't. I'm certain I would have found it too emotional!

I continued my walk through the V&A Waterfront area, passing the Alfred Basin (Photo ZA-059), the Robinson Dry Dock (Photo ZA-060 - where I stopped for a few moments), and the Cape Grace Hotel - where, at the southern end of the building, I am sure I saw a French girl friend, sitting in the front passenger seat of a car, studying her mobile phone! If it wasn't 'Little Miss Trouble', then she has a double! But, I shall never know!

Thinking about my departure tomorrow, I decided to use the bus service (from the bus station, under the Civic Centre) to the airport, as the hotel's courtesy car was not available. But, the question was "Where is the Civic Centre located?" I only knew that it was not far from my hotel!

Back at the hotel (in Heerengracht Street (Photo ZA-061), I asked "Where is the Civic Centre?" I was told it is about 400 metres from the hotel, along Hertzog Boulevard. I was also informed that the tour of the Groote Shuur Hopsital Museum was unfortunately fully booked for the next two days. Tant pis! I left the hotel in search of the Civic Centre. Et Voila! A few minutes later, I was at the Civic Centre (and the bus station)!

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By the time I had familiarised myself with what to do tomorrow, and where to do it, it was approaching lunchtime, so I went back to Dock Road, at the V&A Waterfront (Photo ZA-062) and specifically Mitchell's Waterfront Brewery (Photo ZA-063), for something to eat and drink.

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While on one of the sightseeing tours, and approaching the V&A Waterfront bus stop (Stop 1), the bus passed a lovely-looking and brightly coloured building, not far from where I was sitting. But what was it? After studying the Bus Route Map, I wondered if it was the Somerset Hospital. Rather than visit it tomorrow morning, I set off up the hill to Beach Road. Sure enough, it was the Somerset Hospital, with its octagonal turreted corners; see Photo ZA-064 and Photo ZA-065.

The time was 13:00. I wondered what else I could do in the remaining time I had. What about visiting the vineyards that I didn't have time for yesterday! With the complementary ticket from this morning's helicopter flight, I boarded a Blue Route bus, bound for the Constantia Wine Stop.

It arrived at Stop 21 (on the Bus Route Map), where another bus, for the Purple Route, was waiting. The advert for this route shows a bus passing through leafy vineyards. In actual fact, being Spring, the vines were not yet leafy, and the bus stayed on the main road, except when visting the first of three stops (Stop 25), where it turned into the Groote Constantia Estate's public car park, where it stopped for about 15 minutes. Those passengers who want to, can visit the manor house, and taste and purchase wine. The driver returned to the bus and took us back to Stop 21, from where (after waiting for a Blue Route bus) I went back to the V&A Waterfront.

At the V&A Waterfront, I decided to stay on the bus and alight at Stop 4 (close to the hotel). However, Cape Town does have evening bouchons and as the bus wasn't moving (along Walter Sisulu Avenue), I asked the driver if he would allow me to get off, which he did. I had got as far as Long Street before the bus passed me!

Back at the Radisson hotel, I ate at Harald’s Bar & Terrace, from where I saw an illuminated Table Mountain (Photo ZA-066).

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Friday, 14-Oct-2016

My last half-day in Cape Town, started bright and sunny, so I simply had to take yet another photo of Table Mountain (Photo ZA-067), especially as the morning sun was shining directly on to it. Next, I wanted to visit the V&A Waterfront for the last time. There was a lot still to see (I hadn't seen everything) and eat, particularly in the Market on the Wharf (Photo ZA-068), in Nobel Square. Besides, I also wanted to see the statues of the four Nobel Prize winners again. Then there was the Alfred Basin (Photo ZA-069), and lastly, Dock Road (Photo ZA-070).

I returned to the hotel, collected my luggage, thanked and said "Goodbye" to the Park Inn staff, and walked to the Civic Centre. At 13:30, an A01 bus (for the airport) arrived. After leaving the bus station, I took my last photo of Table Mountain through the bus window, as it crossed the junction of Hertzog Boulevard and Christiaan Barnard Street (Photo ZA-071).

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My flight departed at 16:00 for Johannesburg, arriving two hours later. I had two hours to wait for the departure of my flight to London Heathrow. Like my outbound flight, I was hoping to have some space to sleep, but on this aeorplane, there were only two seats by the window (not three). Once again, one of the last passengers to board had the seat next to me! Is it fate? I didn't get much sleep because my neighbour was on the large size - he was fat! He took up 1.25 seats, leaving me with 0.75 and the window recess!

Saturday, 15-Oct-2016

The flight arrived shortly after 06:00. After passing through passport control (which was surprisingly empty) and collecting my suitcase, I didn't have long to wait for a bus to Reading (for a train to my home town). I arrived at "Home Sweet Home" at 09:30.

Cape Town Conclusion

I felt very humble when in Cape Town. I was continually reminded of Nelson Mandela and the impact he had on society. The thought of being, not only in the same country, but in the same city, was quite special for me!

I don't understand how human beings can brutally treat each other, especially when the one being treated badly is right or innocent! As Nelson Madela said "Never, never and never again shall it be that this beautiful land will experience the oppression of one by another." [A quote from the information board in Nobel Square.]

I recently watched the film Mandela: Long Walk To Freedom and it took my mind back to when I was in Cape Town. Some readers of this might disagree with what follows (or find it controversial), but it also illustrated to me how much bribery, corruption, and secrecy there has been - and still is; and not only in the 'small' countries! [For example, take a look at Chelsea Football Club and its £50,000 bribe and seven-figure sums paid by (Sir?) Philip Green, for silence!]