I awoke at 02h00, but didn't worry about it, as I thought I could get some sleep on the flight to San Fransisco International Airport (SFO); which would help me to adjust my body clock! I checked out of the hotel and wanted to take the 05h27 Hoppa bus, but it never arrived. Instead, I had to wait for the 05h47 Hoppa bus, which arrived at Terminal 2 at about 06h10, after stopping at a number of other hotels.

Having checked-in yesterday morning, I thought this morning's suitcase drop-off would be very quick and simple. How wrong can someone be! I encountered difficulties with the machine; it even took the United Airlines representative two attempts to check-in my suitcase!

He informed me that I would need to collect my suitcase at SFO for immigration purposes. [How stupid is that, considering I was a transit passenger!] As I had nearly two hours until the flight time, I made my way straight to the gate (hoping the gate wouldn't change).

Once boarding time had arrived, I made my way to window seat 50L. During the flight, I was able to cat-nap a few times. The route took us over Manchester, Iceland, the southern part of Greenland, Canada, and down to SFO. I had plenty of time to watch a few episodes of the BBC's award-winning Killing Eve.

I would normally have had two hours to get to the gate for my flight to Tahiti. However, due to a weather depression over Northern Ireland, the upper air winds were strong and from the south-east; i.e., providing a tail wind! They were so strong (150 m.p.h./241 k.p.h.) and accompanied with severe turbulance, that they gave the aircraft a ground speed of 660 m.p.h./965 k.p.h.! We landed at SFO 40 minutes ahead of schedule, which for me, was great - no need to rush!

Once in the passport control area, I was met by a sea of bodies (which reminded me of my experience at Miami last year), divided into United States (US) and Rest of the World (ROW)! Needless to say, the US side emptied quite quickly. One of the assistants allowed ROW passengers across to the US side. [Great idea - an American with some 'grey matter' between her ears!] I'll make my connecting flight in plenty of time.

Then, everything slowed down again! A few of us explained that we were simply transit passengers and had connecting flights. We were (thankfully) allowed across to the relatively empty side of the hall. The immigration officer was very polite and I was through within minutes.

Then I had to locate my suitcase, which I thought was reasonably easy, in order to pass it over for my next flight. The next thing was "Where is Gate 91"? There were plenty of signs for gates numbered up to, and including, 90. I was told to follow signs for Gate 90 and I will see a sign for Gate 91. Low and behold, I saw the sign for Gate 91. I arrived at the gate 30 minutes before departure.

During take off, I was hoping to see the Golden Gate Bridge, but even though we took off in a north-west direction, we flew over the Southern part of San Fransisco and to the south of San Bruno Mountain, as can be seen in Photo PF-001.

The flight to Tahiti took a few minutes short of 8 hours; plenty of time for more cat-naps, and watching a few more episodes of Killing Eve! Although the flight was 30 mintes late leaving SFO, it arrived at Tahiti's Fa'a'ā International Airport 10 minutes late - at 20h50.

Because I had a European Union passport, immigration was a breeze! I was through immigration in minutes, unlike the ROW passengers (mainly from America!)

I was due to be met by a chaufeur to take me to the Tahiti Airport Motel. So, with my suitcase retrieved, I made my way out of the airport building. There were many people holding various signs, but I couldn't see my name on any of them. However, being told that the Tahiti Airport Motel was 'across the road', I walked approximately 500 metres to it, negotiating many steps on the way! Check-in was quick and easy and I was soon in my third-floor room. Within an hour after checking in, I was "in the land of nod". Goodnight!

I awoke at 05h30 and stayed under the duvet, until going down for a breakfast at 07h30: a lovely French bread roll, butter, jam, fruit juice and a bowl of fresh fruit; see Photo PF-002.

After an enjoyable breakfast, I ventured out to the fresh Tahitian air, and changed €60 into approximately 7,159 Pacific Frances at the airport's bureau de change, after which, I went for a bit of exploring before my planned lift to the port.

At 10h50, a taxi (mini-bus) arrived at the motel, where a family of four and myself joined a couple already in the vehicle. Ten minutes after leaving the motel, we joined a bouchon in the centre of Papeete! [Traffic jams on a small Pacific island - unbelieveable!] At 11h20, the other passengers alighted at the ferry terminal; I alighted five minutes later at the quayside in the Place Vai'ete Park and Garden, where the French Polynesia Master was berthed - home for the next ten days!

Although the published boarding time was 12h00, I was welcomed aboard early and shown to my cabin (number 11), where I met my roommate for the next 10 days; an American named Frank.

Once all guests had arrived, and all formalities had been completed, we were divided into four groups, under the leadership of a dive master, rather than having a dive buddy. Marc was the leader of my group, which also included Frank, Richard and his girlfriend Milli (both from the United Kingdom).

I was the only dive guest not qualified to dive with Nitrox. As the duration of the trip was 10 days, I asked if I could take the Nitrox course. "Mais Bien Sûre!" was the answer!

Nitrox: Normal atmospheric air consists of 78% Nitrogen and 21% Oxygen (and 1% other gases). Nitrox, on the other hand, consists of a higher percentage of oxygen (sometimes as high as 40%), with a corresponding reduction of nitrogen. Reducing the proportion of nitrogen, by increasing the proportion of oxygen, reduces the risk of decompression sickness for the same dive profile. The Nitrox percentage of oxygen on board was set at 29%.

For the check dive, and based on my most recent dives in Egypt, I started with 6 Kg of additional lead weight. However, when in the water, I couldn't submerge; I was too buoyant! I was therefore handed an additional 1.5 Kg, which did the trick! When breathing the Nitrox, I didn't notice any difference in breathing or taste, except knowing it was a safer mixture.

The dive site for our check dive was supposed to have three wrecks, but we only saw two: a wooden boat and an aluminium aircraft. While underwater, I thought I saw a Manta Ray pass over our heads, but I was told it was a large Eagle Ray. I didn't have my camera with me, only it's case - to test whether it was watertight; which it was!

After dinner, I retired at 21h00 and slept like a log!

I awoke at 05h30, even though my alarm was set for 06h45; breakfast was at 07h00. I was still full from yesterday's lunch and dinner! I thus had a light breakfast of fresh fruit: water melon and pineapple.

During the first dive (with my camera this time!), I zoomed in on three small beautifully coloured and remarkable looking fish. When I was within a few centimetres of them, they disappeared/darted into their burrow! Watch them in action at about 2 minutes into the first video (Video PF-001). I later found out that they are Fire Gobies or Fire Dartfish (Nemateleotris magnifica). They certainly live up to their name: magnificent, and amazing little creatures!

It turned out to be a busy day for the ship's engineer! First, the air conditioning wasn't working throughout the vessel. Thankfully, he replaced the faulty part and comfort returned! That was the only good news.

While we were away on our second dive (to the west of the island), the not-so-good news was that the work had to be inspected and verified before the vessel could leave port! The even worse news was that the inspector would not arrive until tomorrow afternoon! Therefore, today's and tomorrow's dives had been restricted to local sites, using one of the vessel's zodiac/rigid inflatable boat (RIB) to and from the dive sites.

Note: I'm not sure if the inspection was for the air conditioning, or for an on-going engine problem.

During the second dive, we encoutered a few turtles, as well as coming across an underwater spring, eminating cold, fresh water; see Video PF-002! The difference between the fresh water and the sea water was obvious, both temperature-wise - and visually; as can be seen in the second video clip. The bluring of Milie is not intentional. It was caused by the stream of fresh water flowing into the ocean!

My air consumption was higher than the other divers in the group. When my air supply was down to 50 bar, Marc (the group leader) gave me his secondary mouth piece. Amazingly, even with me sharing his air, Marc was left with 70 bar when we finished the dive!

Thanks to the onboard French chef, lunch was what I thought was typically a French meal - Steak-Frites. However, according to Wikipedia, it may be Belgian! After lunch, I decided not to participate in the afternoon dive, as I was too tired; I think due to jet lag catching-up on me.

We were taken for an unusual refreshment break during the afternoon; on a sand bank, where the depth of water was around mid-thigh. While we were away from the French Polynesia Master, the vessel was inspected and given the required certification to set sail! Departure was set for 16h00.

Once back on board, I realised that I had been sunburned on the exposed parts of my body (i.e., my legs, arms and face) as we had been out and back to the dive site via a zodiac - with no protection from the wind and sun!

At 17h20, when we finally left port, a member of the crew started playing Christmas Carols on the lounge's sound system; which seemed very strange in the tropics! However, the sailing didn't last long, as through one of the windows, I noticed that the vessel had turned 180° and was heading back to port! About an hour after departing, we were (indeed) back in port! During dinner, the engineer appeared and informed us that one of the two engines was (still) overheating, even though it had been almost completely rebuilt. He told us that he had even gone to Melbourne (Australia) for replacement parts! Thus we left port, believing that the problem(s) had been fixed. But no!

At breakfast, the engineer informed us that "there is a blockage somewhere! We are dismantelling the outside valve and should know the result by the time you return from your two morning dives".

I decided not to dive today, as there was no protection from the sun on the zodiac and I didn't want to aggrevate my already sunburned parts. Plus, I wanted to complete my Nitrox theory training.

At lunch, we were told that the cause of the low water flow was due to a plastic cog (with a metal bearing) not working. Plan A was to purchase an electric pump during the afternoon. Plan B was to fly all nineteen of us to Rangiroa tomorrow morning. There was also a rumour of a third problem; with the bilge pump!

I completed my Nitrox training after lunch, and was free to join the next dive, but didn't want to get more sunburned than I already was!

The fate of tomorrow was decided: a couple of divers decided not to participate, so the remaining seventeen of us will fly to Rangiroa, staying in a hotel!

I was woken up at 05h10 by the sound of the air conditioning in the cabin. Hooray! Something is working! Approximately one hour later, it stopped, but was replaced by the sound of the vessel's engines; were they being tested, or were we going to leave port? Well,...

...The noise was probably a test, because after breakfast, we were told to pack our belongings in readiness for a flight to Rangiroa! When the time arrived for us to 'walk the plank', our suitcases were loaded into the two people carriers, and we were taken to the airport.

I presume the flight services between the islands are comparable to local bus services! While waiting to be checked in, it was interesting to look at what some passengers were checking-in as luggage; for example, open cardboard boxes, which had to be sealed! Was it because it was Christmas? Probably.

The flight to Rangiroa went via Bora Bora! Wow! I had heard about the island paradise, but I never thought I would actually visit it! Check-in for the flight was a bit chaotic for all seventeen of us, but we all got through to the departure lounge.

When it was time to board, we walked to the aircraft, as it was parked close to the airport building (Photo PF-014). There was no seat allocation. Like buses, it was free seating - sit where you want!

The flight to Rangiroa passed to the south of the island of Mo'orea (Photo PF-015 and Photo PF-016) and continued in a north-westerly direction to Bora Bora. About thirty minutes after taking off from Tahiti, we landed at Bora Bora! As the aircraft needed to be refuelled, all passengers flying on to Rangiroa were required to disembark and walk to the (small) airport building.

There were no custom formalities (having no international flights in or out), so I decided to go walkabout. A few metres through the building and I found myself standing on the side of the port (Photo PF-017 and Photo PF-018).

Feeling hungry, I went back into the building and bought a slice of banana cake and a drink, at the refreshment kiosk. However, unknown to me, the refuelling of the aircraft had finished and boarding was underway. Unfortunately, I only had time to have one bite of the cake (and no drink!) when I heard my name (and two others) over the building's public address system, requesting we boarded!

After we landed at Rangiroa airport and were inside the airport building, we seventeen were greated with a flower garland placed over our heads (a first for me!) by a member of staff from our destination hotel. Outside, we were directed to vehicles to transport us to Hotel Kia Ora Resort and Spa.

At the hotel, I was directed to Beach Bungalow 56. Frank was already in the dwelling. Inside, I was shocked to discover that there were no single beds, but a double bed! We hastlity went back to the Reception to complain. We were told that there was no other (cheaper) accommodation available. Frank asked the receptionist for the cost of an upgrade. He was told it would cost over 600 U.S. Dollars - per night! He rightly refused. The hotel's solution was to 'convert' the sofa into a single bed (with a sheet and pillow)! Frank had already placed his belongings on the bed, so my only option was to have the newly-made bed (sofa).

With the accommodation finally sorted out, I had to record the sea view from the bungalow (see Video PF-003).

Once established in our hotel rooms, we prepared and changed for an afternoon dive. During the dive, I saw a shark and a Napoleon Wrasse. On our return to the hotel, dolphins were seen, playing in the waves behind the zodiac; amazing!

Once dinner had finished, I returned to the bungalow and was in bed (on the sofa!) and asleep soon after 21h00; it had been an exhausting day!

I awoke at 07h30, with the next dive briefing at 08h00! I made my way to the "Dive Fayre" and informed Laurie that I didn't want to dive at this time; "I've just woken up and would like to spend the morning relaxing".

At 10h00, Alex (the vessel's manager), asked me if I would be joining the second dive. I declined, adding I wanted to relax, which I did by taking a casual walk around the hotel grounds, taking a couple of photos (Photo PF-032 and Photo PF-033) in the process.

Lunch was described as "Traditional Fish and Chips". Well, I and a few other Brits didn't think so. Anyway, after eating the main course, I (surprisingly) didn't have room for a dessert, even though I felt my body needed sugar!

I joined the third dive of the day; at 14h00. At the dive briefing, we were told that there was a strong current, but a good chance of seeing sharks! My dive group comprised Raphael (the leader), Milli, Richard, Frank and myself.

Because of the strength of the surface current, we made a negative entry and grouped at a depth of 5 metres. My weight belt contained 8 Kg and I didn't think it was enough to get down, but by fully emptying my lungs, I was soon at a depth of 30 metres! There were many, many sharks below us (see Video PF-004), apparently feeding on Eagle Rays.

We left the sharks and entered the mouth of the channel. I was comfortable following Raphael until we reched the main current. We turned and started swimming with the current. Unfortunately, the current caught me by surprise; it was too strong for me. My breathing rate increased and soon I had left the group, rapidly heading off in a southerly direction, not knowing where I would end up! I began to panic, especially when I lost sight of the group, which added to my state of stress!

Fortunately (and much to my relief), Raphael came into view, swimming towards me. Although we were told not to attempt to fight the current, I did what I could to try and slow myself down - by finning like crazy against the current! Raphael reached me, and through his hand actions, calmed my down; which thankfully reduced my state of panic, and my rate of breathing! By this time, I was left with 50 bar in my tank, so Raphael passed me his auxiliary regulator. Much to my delight, he then deployed his Surface Marker Buoy (SMB), but we were still flowing along in the strong current at a depth of about 15 metres. Shortly after, the remaining three members of the group arrived.

Raphael signalled that we were to surface without taking a safety stop! I did notice that his air supply had also reduced to 50 bar, which concerned me. Moments after, Raphael put me back onto my own tank and we made a gradual path to the surface, still moving with the current!

At the surface (which I was pleased to reach!) I apologised for what happened. They were all very understanding, which made me feel better. "We all have experienced our first drift dive." Milli even said she thought the dive was very technical; which made me feel even better!

Back on board the zodiac, Raphael said he actually gave us two safety stops, at 5 metres. When we arrived back at the hotel, we were told that the next dive (a sunset dive) would be in an hour. Even though Alex told me it would be an easy dive, with no currents, I declined. By now, my pulse rate had reduced to 76 bpm, but I felt that I needed to fully recover my strength and general feeling.

Back at the bungalow, I went for a swim outside the bungalow, but that activity quickly came to an end, as there were many sharp stones and rocks in the shallow water! Back on dry land, outside the bungalow, I spent some time on one of the sun loungers, as the sun was setting.

At dinner (a barbecue), we were entertained by a local Polynesian troupe (see Videos PF-005 to PF-010), that performed several dances; see Photo PF-035 and Photo PF-036. The show started with the cute (and fearless) young girl dancing (in Photo PF-037) dancing on her own, and with the adult members joining her some minutes after. Excellent.

I must admit, and with all the movements that they were doing, it was incredible how the grass skirts stayed in place on the girls' hips! They must have used a very good adhesive tape!

Although I had a good night's sleep, I was tired, but I wondered if part of me was in delayed shock from yesterday's experience.

The 10h00 o'clock dive was a casual event, close to the reef. Even though I suggested having 8 Kg in my weight belt, I was given 4 Kg. However, I had a very slow descent, compared to the other divers, who were already down to the reef. There was only a slight current, which I was pleased about. Raphael noticed that I was having difficulty getting down, so he put an extra 1 Kg weight into my Buoyancy Control Device (BCD), which helped.

Not only did I have problems with weight, I had a problem with my mask; water was somehow getting in! I took it off and put it back on (as practiced during the Open Water Course), but surprisingly, there was no change! Frank saw I had problems and got the attention of Raphael, who came to my aid (again)! I removed and replaced the mask a second time, and he was able to ensure that it was correctly fitted - which it was!

A large Napoleon Wrasse was spotted feeding on a part of the coral reef; see Video PF-012. Nearby, a turtle was also feeding. A second turtle joined in. "It's mine!" said the visitor! "No, it's mine!" said the first; see Video PF-013.

It is said that things happen in threes (3s)! Well, towards the end of the dive, I was not able to stay down with the other divers, because I didn't have enough weight in my belt! I tried my best to stay down, but with my tank nearly empty, I had become more buoyant!

Because of my effort trying to stay down, plus the 14h00 dive being the same dive site as yesterday, I decided over lunch (which was a prawn cocktail and tartines (toast)) to give the next dive a miss, in favour of the later sunset dive.

Over lunch, a few of us discussed writing a joint letter of complaint (about what was happening instead of what should really have happened!), rather than writing individual letters. In what we were doing (travelling to Bora Bora, Rangiroa and Fakarava), we were packing our cases, then unpacking them, only to repack them a few days later! Also, for those of us that rented diving equipment (I chose to rent a BCD for the holiday), we had to adjust our diving style according to the different diving equipment used at the different locations. I used a different BCD at each dive location, thus there was no consistency!

For the sunset dive, I had 8 Kg in my weight belt, which made a big difference; I was able to descend a lot quicker. Once down, we swam along the reef, but there wasn't much to see, apart from a few black tip sharks swimming below us.

I didn't feel completely comfortable, as I still had problems with my mask, and so as not to have my tank moving around on my back, I had to make sure all BCD straps were tight; which made my chest feel tight.

The dive plan was to swim along the left-hand side of the channel and not in the main current. I felt the current getting stronger and because my confidence had been affected, attempted to hold on to Raphael's BCD. He realised what I was doing and we needed to change direction. We made a gradual ascent, with a three-minute safety stop at 5 metres.

Back in the zodiac, Raphael said that what I did was the right thing to do. It made him realise that we were heading towards the main current; hence the decision to change direction. Enfin, I did something right!

For the Christmas Eve dinner, I chose Saumon Fumé as a Starter, followed by Carré d'Agneau de Nouvelle Zélande. I don't know if it was part of our arrangement, but we also had a bottle of champagne. We later found out that the champagne was extra, but somehow we didn't pay for it!

Another Tahitian show had been arranged for the hotel guests, so I went back to the bungalow to get my camera. In doing so (when about to leave the bungalow and not wearing any shoes), I 'kicked' the solid wooden table with my left little toe! Ouch! Sh*t, that hurt! I don't think I broke any bone, but it was badly bruised, with blood around the nail.

I limped back to the restauant and was asked "What have you done?" I was offered so much help, it was a very pleasant gesture. Once the show was over, Cyril, one of my fellow guests bandaged my two left-most toes together. I limped back to the bungalow with a bag of ice cubes! No diving for me for the next couple of days; at least!

During the night, I was woken up a few times by the pain from my toe (particularly when turning over on the (sofa)bed), and, at 02h00, by very heavy rain! When I eventually got up at 07h30, the sky was heavily overcast, but the sun could be seen through the layer of milky (altocumulus) clouds.

I lazed around the hotel for most of the day and took a few photographs (of the Pacific Ocean: Photo PF-044, Photo PF-045 and Photo PF-046, a wide-angled view of the hotel Photo PF-047 and of the hotel's Reception area (Photo PF-049 and Photo PF-051).

For my lunch, I simply had a fresh fruit salad for my lunch (Photo PF-048); I wasn't feeling very hungry.

Reports from the other divers, upon their return, was of seeing a few sharks, but nothing extraodinary or worthy of note; so I didn't miss much by staying at the hotel.

That evening, at dinner, we were entertained by another Polynesian Dance Troupe; see Video PT-014.

My little toe felt better, but was still bruised and swollen! Today was another packing day, as we were to fly to Fakarava later.

At 10h00, Xialin, Alex and I left the hotel to visit the Black Pearl Farm. I thought it was just the three of us going, but en route, we collected a number of (very loud) retired American tourists! The visit to the farm was very interesting. Our host explained how the oysters' shell is carefully prised open a few millimetres and a wedge is inserted into the gap (to keep the shell open) while a nucleus is implanted into the oyster; from which a pearl hopefully is prodeuced. The complete lifecycle (to produce a pearl) takes 5 years.

After checking out, a garland (made from small shells) was put over our heads by the hotel manager. We finally left the hotel at 13h45, for the 15h05 flight to Fakarava. To reduce the weight in my suitcase, I wore my jeans and shoes (additionally as support for my injured toe). It worked well, as my case weighed exactly 23 Kg at check-in!

The flight from Rangiroa to Fakarava (Photo PF-052 and Photo PF-053) took 45 minutes. Once we had disembarked the aircraft (not "deplaned", as the Americans say!) at Fakarava Airport (Photo PF-054), we were taken for a short drive to the port, from where we could see the French Polynesia Master anchored in the bay. After a series of quick shuttle trips between the port and the vessel (via one of the two zodiacs), we were all back on board. It was good to be back 'home' and to see the crew again.

We were informed that the vessel needed to sail to the southern part of the atoll, so there would not be a sunset dive. Some divers were not happy (after all what had happened during the past few days), but I didn't mind, as my toe was still painful. We were asked to unpack our diving equipment (yet again) and leave it on the dive deck. I would decide tomorrow if my foot was OK for me to dive.

This morning, my toe felt better, so after a breakfast of fruit, I prepared to dive; much to the delight of the other divers - it was a very nice moment!

During the dive, I had to seek the assistance of Marc in the current, although thankfully, it wasn't as strong as earlier this week! We hooked ourselves to the reef to watch many sharks (mainly Blacktip Sharks) - a truly wonderful sight; see Video PT-015! Further on, we saw a number of Eagle Rays.

I wasn't the only diver in the group to consume a lot of air. Richard and Marc* finished with 10 Bar each and me with 25 Bar, but Milli had 100 Bar! I need to control my breathing better! [It is a known fact that female divers generally consume less air than their male counterparts! Moral of the story: dive with a female buddy!]

* As can be seen in Video PF-016, Marc appears to have an air leak (indicated by the continuous stream of air bubbles), which could explain his final low level of air!

Back on board the French Polynesia Master, it was announced that there was an excusion to an island with pink sand. I would have liked to have gone, but as there was no protection from the sun, I stayed on board. While those guests were away visiting the island, between 20 and 30 Black Tip Sharks appeared beside the vessel; see Photo PF-055 and Photo PF-056, and Video PF-017.

I awoke with a tightness across my chest! I felt that with a BCD on, I might have restrictions in breathing properly, so I declined the 06h00 dive. Besides, I still felt tired.

At breakfast, I informed Marc that I did not wish to take part in any of to-day's dives; our last diving day. I stayed on board, enjoying the company of the other non-divers.

Rain (a member of the crew) said she will let me know when she was going to feed the sharks. That is why they were congregating alongside the side of the vessel - they were waiting for food; see Video PF-018. After preparing the next meal in the galley, Rain threw the waste fruit skins and other perishable offcuts into the water.

When all dives had finished and we were on our way back to Rotorava, it was cocktail time on the upper deck, where group photos were taken, and a glorious sunset was observed; see Photo PF-057. After dinner, it was back to our cabins to pack - again!

Although the early morning wake-up call was at 06h30, I awoke at 05h10! I was showered and packed in time for breakfast at 06h45. I didn't have much for breakfast as my stomach was not feeling right; I wonder if it was 'churning over' at the thought of what awaited me ashore!

The first group left at 07h40, as they had to be at the airport for a flight to Papeete. As I was staying locally for a couple more days, my departure time was 08h05, with a planned pick-up time of 08h15 from the port. My pick-up eventually arrived at 08h40.

As usual, I found it very emotional saying goodbye. Bruce and Frank both said "At least it shows you have a heart!" I felt even worse when it came to my actual departure: Buz provided a very nice jesture (and support) by accompanying me in the zodia to the port. How many times have I said before: "I hate Goodbyes!"

I arrived at Pension VekeVeke at about 09h00 and shown to Bungalow 3 (named Tenga Tenga). I am pleased that I could understand French, as I was given a lot of information - admitedly, too much to absorb in one go - except that dinner was at 19h00! One of my first views was of the lagoon in front of the bungalow. It looked so inviting that I quickly changed and went snorkelling! The water wasn't very deep; approximately thigh depth (70 to 80 cms, depending how tall one is!).

The bungalow was basic (nothing luxurious), but functional - with a private shower and toilet, and two beds (one double and one single). Any cooling was provided by a fan. Despite the accommodation being basic, the view from the front of the bungalow more than compensated it; it was idyllic, out of this world!

Lunch was at a nearby 'snack bar'. Again, I wasn't particularly hungry, but thirsty; a 1.5 litre bottle of chilled water cost 300 XPF (€2.50).

I had another snorkelling session at 16h00 in the shallows, when the sun wasn't as strong; see Video PF-019. I discovered that the 6"/15 cm photo balloon dome gave me more trouble than pleasure; it was too buoyant and took some effort to control it in producing a steady underwater video recording. I gave up with it and decided to leave it behind for the next guest! [It would also free-up some valuable space in my suitcase!]

Evening dinner was exactly at 19h00. The Starter was a fresh tuna salad; the main course was a fish steak and mashed vegetables, and the dessert was a homemade pineapple cake with cream - yummy! I sat with a family of five. During the day, I thought they were perhaps American (as English was spoken). Then I changed my thoughts to perhaps French (as French was also spoken)! It turned out that it was a French family, holidaying in French Polynesia, living in California!

On my way back to the bungalow, six Nurse Sharks were seen in the shallow water beside the restaurant, presumably waiting for food! I finally retired at 20h30 and used the single bed, as the double bed was too soft and very uncomfortable!

The overnight temperature was 28°C, which caused me to have a wrestless night's sleep. At 08h00, I was about to go for breakfast when it started raining very heavily, but it was all finished by 08h15. I had another continental breakfast, comprising bread, butter, confiture d'ananas (pineapple) and fruit juice.

My plan for to-day was to do nothing - a totally relaxation day in the tropics, which included watching a flock of birds in the middle of the lagoon, feeding on a shoal of fish (which was obviously close to the surface)! Other activities included having a few power naps, sitting on the veranda and watching the world go by, walking across to the ocean side of the atoll, walking to and sitting under the canopy on the jetty, and purchasing more water from the snack bar. All very exciting!

The evening's dinner was another tuna salad, followed by a tuna steak, and a dessert of sorbet with fresh fruit. I also had an entertaining time talking to the French family - both in French and English (and Franglais!).

Another do-nothing day (or morning) except for repacking the suitcase (again!). Without the camera dome (being light, but bulky), there was a lot more room in the suitcase. I had another light breakfast. On my way back to the bungalow, I noticed that the resident Black Tip shark had put in an appearance; to say Goodbye?

Despite all the miles travelled, the shirt that I had brought with me for tonight's New Year's Dinner, was only slightly creased; nothing compared to the Polo shirt I wore at breakfast!

My return journey home starts!

I left Pension Veke-Veke at 12h45 for the airport. I must admit that I was looking forward to spending a night in an air-conditioned room! Views of the flight between the airports of Fakarava and Papeete (via Rangiroa), have been captured in photos PF-066 through to PF-077.

Upon arrival back at Papeete at 16h30 (after a quick stop at Rangiroa), a representative from the Tahiti Nui Travel agency was waiting to take me to the Intercontinental Hotel. After checking-in at Reception (where I was given two vouchers (one for the dinner and one for a half-bottle of champagne)), I was in my room by 17h00! I had two hours to get prepared for the hotel's New Year's Eve (Réveillon de la Saint Sylvestre) dinner. It was absolute luxury to have a hot shower! [Most of the showers taken over the past couple of weeks were either luke warm or even cold!]

Arriving at the huge restaurant area, I was greeted by the smell of sea food. I wasn't sure what the seating plan was (integrated or individual), until I was shown to my table, set for one, on one side of the restaurant, quite far from the stage (where, I presumed, the entertainment was to take place).

The eating arrangement was that of a large help-yourself buffet. Closest to where I was seated was the sea food (oysters, prawns, lobster halves, etc.), followed by all manner of vegetables, followed by the meat section (beef, lamb, poultry, etc.), while at the opposite end, were the desserts (fresh fruit, petites gateaux, and one huge chocolate fountain; a sample, of which, I had - and enjoyed!).

Once the Tahitian performers had finished, guests started leaving to presumably return to their rooms, which I did too. However, as it was New Year's Eve, I wanted to see if anything special was planned to occur at midnight. So just before midnight, I returned to the restaurant and pool, only to see one firework in the sky, launched from the other side of the hotel; a bit of an anticlimax!

Once the midnight hour had passed, some of the guests on the dance floor attempted to burst as many balloons as possible! Happy New Year/Bonne Année!

Back in my room, I checked myself in for tomorrow evening's flight to San Fransisco, at the same time, upgrading to Business Class. Despite the earlier unfortunate situations, I wanted to end this experience on a high, as well as getting a good night's sleep in comfort! I finally retired at 01h30.

It was a late start for my breakfast (09h30). Breakfast time was between 07h00 and 11h00. Once that was over, it was time to go and do a bit of exploring! The hotel had three swimming pools (one of which contained sea water - and fish), plus a beach; see Video PF-020. I would have liked to have tried them all, but I didn't want to travel back home with damp/wet clothes in my suitcase.

Although sunset was at 18h15, the best colours in the sky happened about 30 minutes later; see Photo PF-085, Photo PF-086 and Photo PF-087.

I packed my suitcase (for the very last time) and checked out. My transport from the hotel to the airport was scheduled for 20h10, but it arrived at 19h50. The driver asked if he was too early, but I said "Let's go". I arrived at the airport check-in desk at 20h10, for the 22h40 overnight flight to San Francisco.

Going through security control was a bit of an adventure! Whereas a lot of (most?) airports have plastic trays in which to place hand luggage, laptops, etc. on a conveyor belt, everything at Fa'a'ā International Airport was manual. Once air-side, I was greeted by Cyril (the fellow diver who dressed my injured toe) and his wife; they were bound for Switzerland, via Los Angeles and Heathrow. One of the first things he asked me was "How is the toe?" I replied "A lot better thanks." After saying our Goodbyes, we went to our appropriate departure gate.

When I checked-in earlier this morning, I was sure I allocated a window seat; but no. I was seated in the centre rows of the aircraft, between other passengers; albeit they were students.

Farewell Polynésie Française!

I don't know how, but even having passengers either side of me, I was able to get some sleep between Papeete and San Fransisco! At San Fransisco International Airport, there was the inevitable slow American immigration process! Even though I had approximately 4 hours until my flight to Houston, I thought my passage through would take hours, based on the hundreds (thousands?) of passengers in the customs hall! However, seeing that the immigration queues for U.S. citizens was virtually empty, a couple of immigration officials used their grey matter and started directing ROW passengers across to the empty U.S. booths!

I explained that I was in transit, and was directed to a free terminal, into which I entered my passport details. Much to my surprise, everything was in order, and my receipt did not have a large 'X' across it (unlike my transit through Miami airport to Mexico, in 2017)!

I was then directed to a short queue, where I was 'interviewed' by a polite immigration officer at a pedestal; not a booth! Within a few minutes, I was on my way to the Baggage Claim area. I was fortunate to quickly locate my suitcase and I was on my way to the "Connecting Flights" area, from where I was directed to my required departure gate (for my flight to Houston). Even though I was travelling to the United Kingdom via Houston, I was told that I wouldn't see my suitcase until I reached Heathrow Airport.

Once on board the Houston flight, my seat reservation was not as I had selected on-line; my aisle seat was at the very rear of the aircraft. However, the adjacent two seats were not occupied when it was time to depart, so I had the three seats to myself. Or so I thought!

An off-duty stewardess, who was travelling home to Houston, moved from a jump seat (in the galley) to the aisle seat by me. Whether it was my British accent, or she was just being very helpful, our conversation turned to my onward connecting flight to Heathrow, from Houston.

She informed me that this flight would arrive at a Terminal C Gate, and that my London flight would leave from a Terminal E Gate. So my question was "How do I get from Terminal C to Terminal E?" She told me I can either walk or take the train!

At the end of the flight, she even kindly told me the gate number I would need to get to (E20). Seconds after arriving at Terminal C, I boarded a train for Terminal E; good timing! I had about 10 minutes to get to Gate E20, so I didn't spend any time visiting any of the duty-free shops!

Once at the gate, it was nice to be one of the first passengers onto the aeroplane; being in Business Class made the difference! My backpack was the only item in the overhead locker. After strapping myself in, I set about understanding how to operate (or convert) the seat into a bed; great fun!

We departed from the terminal, on time, at 20h15. After dinner, I watched the last two episodes of Killing Eve. Then it was time to convert the seat into a bed and bury my head into a very soft pillow! Goodnight!