I had previously checked-in (on-line from home) for the British Airways' flight to Reykjavík, and at the same time, selected my seat.

My flight was at 08h15, so in order to give myself plenty of time (I hate rushing, particularly for an aircraft flight), I got up at 02h50. After packing the final items, I left home for the airport (in heavy rain) at 04h10, arriving about an hour later at the North-side Long-Term car park. I had pre-booked my parking, so upon arrival at the entrance of the car park, the barrier opened automatically on identifying my car's registration number; Automatic Number Plate Recognition (ANPR) does have its advantages!

I only had to wait about 2 minutes for the next shuttle bus to the terminal. Terminal 5 was surprisingly busy at that time of morning (05h30), but understandably, it was because of the 'Christmas Get-away'. I was quickly checked-in and air-side before 06h00, but had to wait until 07h25 before the departure gate was displayed.

At 07h35, I was at the departure gate (10B), from where all passengers were transported by bus to a parked aircraft. It was still raining, so it was a quick walk up the steps, into the aircraft and to seat 12A, which was one of the Emergency Exits - having extra leg room! The down-side of the seat is that full visibility of the ground out of the window is restricted by the aircraft's wing and engine.

The aircraft was pushed back from its parking position on time at 08h15, and left the ground at 08h30. I was hoping that, once clear of the United Kingdom, the ground (and sea) would be clearly visible. Unfortunately, it was a cloudy flight all the way to Keflavík Airport, where we landed at 11h00; the same time as the U.K. Photo IS-001 is my first sight of Iceland, about two minutes before touch-down!

Photo IS-001

At 12h10, I, and a number of other passengers, left the airport aboard a Gray Line Iceland coach, bound for Reykjavík city centre. Journey time was about an hour, after a transfer at the company's main transportation hub (at Klettagaröar 4). I was transferred to a minibus and taken to Bus Stop 3, on Lækjargata (outside the Icelandic Deli and close to the Hard Rock Café), from where I walked the short distance to the Radisson Blu 1919 hotel.

Check-in was quick and easy; especially with the British Airways coupon I received when initially making the booking. The hotel receptionist provided a brief list of places of interest of the city, on a map, and the nearest bank, which happened to be directly opposite the hotel entrance, on the other side of the road!

My first objective was to change most of my Euros into Icelandic Krona. Then, suitably prepared with local currency and a map, I went exploring! Now that I had the journey from the airport to the hotel behind me, I realised just how cold it was (+4°C, and a breeze).

From where I was standing (at the junction of Bankastræti and Lækjargata), I wanted a panoramic photo of Lækjargata, the Harpa Concert Hall and the snow-covered Mountain Esjan above Grundarhverfi; and Photo IS-002 is the result.

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The majority of the people walking past me were either going into or out of Bankastræti. Thinking that it could be interesting to explore, I made my way up the hill and then right into Skólavörðustígur. My map (from the hotel) indicated that these streets (Bankastræti, Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur) comprise the main shopping area of Reykjavík.

At the top end of Skólavörðustígur was the incedible sight of a tall church tower/spire. It is part of the (famous?) Hallgrímskirkja church, named after the 17^th century poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Pétursson.

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It had been suggested I eat in the Café de Paris. Good idea! Based on my experiences of eating at Café de Paris restaurants in France in the past, it should be very good! So, I approached what looked like a local couple, and asked them for directions to the "Café de Paris" [in my best French accent]. They didn't know, but the guy said [in a true English accent]

"There is a Café Paris down there" pointing downhill towards Austurstræti.

"Ah, that could be it! Thank you" I said - hopefully.

Sure enough, it was the correct street, but not exactly the true French-style "Café de Paris" I was hoping for. It was simply a restaurant called "Cafe Paris" - or "Kaffi Paris" as printed on the receipt! And, it was only about 50 metres from my hotel!

Back into Laugavegur, and with the weather expected to deteriorate in the next few days, I booked myself onto a Northern Lights excursion for this evening (even though I was feeling tired), at the What's On office, with a collection from Bus Stop 3 at 20h30. To prepare for the cold, I needed some food. Inside the Café Paris, I had a Cheese Burger. I don't know why, but I thought it was a meat-free meal; which I wanted. But I was wrong. It contained a slice of cheese on a meat burger! Oh well, I ate it as I was hungry!

Then it was back to the hotel to change into some warmer clothers, and at about 20h00, I made my way to Bus Stop 3. At that time of evening, it was very busy, with many people waiting for numerous buses; for both excursions and the airport! I must admit, this city is well organised for its tourists!

My minibus duly arrived and off we set. Lukas, our driver (from Luxury Minibus Tours), took us to three locations to the south-east of Reykjavík, away from the main road and without light pollution. Well, there was a glow in the north-western sky from Reykjavík, but it didn't seem to affect the clear night sky too much.

Some minutes later and Lukas noticed a feint green light in the sky. He set up his camera and the result was very good! He suggested long exposure times (of about 10 seconds) for best effects.

Unfortunately, I didn't realise (or should that read "forgot") that my iPhone had a time-lapse setting, but I didn't have the appropriate stabalising piece of equipment (a tripod) to hold my phone steady! I have requested a copy of the evening's light show from Lukas, as I do not use Facebook (where he has posted them) and am still waiting for a response!

The minibus arrived back at Reykjavík (Bus Stop 3) at about 00h35, and I got back at the hotel some minutes later, but not before taking two photos (without the crowds around!), one of the Christmas, or Yule, Cat (Jólakötturinn); Photo IS-008. It is a monster from Icelandic folklore; see Wikipedia and medievalists.net).

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After getting to bed at about 01h00, I didn't want to wake up mid-morning, so I set my alarm for 08h30.

I was woken by the alarm, but still felt tired. I ventured out into the dark, cold air and made my way to the Icelandic Deli, where I had a Chocolate-covered Spiral Roll (approximately 15 cm in diameter) and a mug of Hot Chocolate, with a topping of whipped cream.

By the time I had finished and refuelled, daylight had arrived. It was time to go exploring and get familiarised with the city. So into the cold (+3°C with a strong wind) I went, and made my way to the Harpa Concert Hall, to see what was going on - and more importantly, to get out of the cold wind!

I returned outside and took a panoramic series of photos of Mountain Esja/Esjan (Photo IS-009). Then it was back into the building (second floor), from where I took a photo of the sweeping curve of Sæbraut (Photo IS-010).

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After seeing all that was to see inside the Harpa Concert Hall, I walked back into town via Bankastræti and Laugavegur, for a bit of window shopping - and to find somewhere to have lunch; which I didn't!

At the end of Laugavegur, I walked down Snorrabraut to the sea front, where I attempted to take a panoramic view towards the Harpa Concert Hall. However, the coldness had an effect on my camera's battery; it died!

I made my way back up to Laugavegur, via Frakkastígur. By now, it was time for lunch, so I made my way to the Old Iceland Restaurant, where I had a very good Fillet of Cod, and a glass of Viking lager; which was rather nice, in being not too sweet.

I did a little more exploring after my lunch, but was beginning to feel exhausted. Therefore, I decided to return to the hotel, where I stayed for the rest of the day, occassionally falling asleep! I must have been very tired.

I awoke, after having had a very good night's sleep. Upon leaving the hotel (on my way, again, to the Icelandic Deli for breakfast (Photo IS-011)), I was 'hit' by a very strong wind (or gale) blowing, which made it feel a lot colder than the temperature of +3°C, displayed at the hotel's reception.

Photo IS-011

Once refuelled, I started walking around to see more of the city, but because of the low temperature and strong wind, I had to return to the warmth of the hotel.

I stayed in the warm for a large part of the day, thinking that I would have a meal in the hotel's restaurant. Unfortunately, when I went downstairs to Reception to ask for direction to the restaurant, I was told that it was closed! That only meant one thing: I had to venture out into the cold night air and search for a restaurant!

There was a lot more people about now. Most of the restaurants that I passed were full; one actually had a queue waiting outside to get in! That didn't provide me with much confidence in finding somewhere to eat.

I imagined myself going into the open branch of Subway for something to eat. That was, until I reached the Old Iceland Restaurant, that seemed to have a couple of free tables! And yes, they were free! I had another nicely cooked piece of cod and a Viking lager.

I was back at the hotel, just in time for the start of Love Actually (one of my all-time favourite films).

Another day of walking and exploring, including walking along Laugavegur, left into Snorrabraut and down to the sea front (Sæbraut) and back towards the Harpa Concert Hall, but stopping off at the Sun Voyager Sculpture (Photo IS-014), opposite Frakkastígur.

A plaque (dated 1986) by the sculpture reads: "We all have our fantasy boats, vessels that we dream of sailing away in, into the dream. In my ships, I unite my own fantasy, precision and knowledge that boat builders have developed throughout the ages. The sun ship gives us a promise of a primeval land."

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Although I was tired from all the walking I had done during the morning, when evening came, I felt somewhat hungry, so I decided to quickly pop out to get something to eat - as a dessert. I was absolutely amazed! It seemed like the whole population of Reykjavík was out on the streets (very similar to Bastille Day in France, and Queen's Day in the Netherlands)! I later found out that 23^rd December is a special day in Iceland: the celebration of Saint Thorlak Thorhallsson, the patron saint of Iceland.

What I intended to be a quick visit to a local 'pattiserie' and back, turned into a walk around the city lasting almost two hours! Among the various activities, there was a group of people standing around a female guitarist, singing a song about The Christmas Cat.

I was up early (06h30) this morning, as I had to be at Bus Stop 3 for an 08h00 pickup, for Gray Line's Iceland Golden Circle Classic Tour. However, beforehand, I had a brief breakfast (another Croissant and a mug of Hot Chocolate) in the Icelandic Deli, as the pick-up bus stop is conveniently directly outside! While walking from the hotel to the deli, it was snowing lightly (snow grains), but they melted upon reaching the ground.

A minibus arrived and its passengers were driven to Gray Line's terminal, where we transferred to a larger coach. This tour is Gray Line's best-selling excursion, and this morning was no exception, as there were two coaches!

Once onboard and about to leave, we were informed that, as it was around the time of the winter solstace, the route would be done in reverse to the published route, because of the available daylight for the national park. Thus, the route started at the geothermal area surrounding Geysir, followed by the Gullfoss Waterfall and lastly, the þingvellir (pronounced thing-vellir) National Park.

By the time we arrived at the first stop, the sun still hadn't risen above the horizon, but it was slowly getting light, as can be seen in the following eight photos. On our walk to the geyser, it started snowing!

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The Strokker Geyser (2 minutes, 15 seconds) Video IS-001
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Having spent time at Geysir, it was time to move on to the next location of the tour: the two waterfalls at Gullfoss.

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The Two Gullfoss Waterfalls (0 minutes, 30 seconds) Video IS-002

The following text is a transcript of what is written on a sign near the waterfalls: The Gullfoss gorge is approximately 2.5 Km in length and up to 70 metres in depth, reflecting great glacial floods whereby the river carved out its channel at the end of the last Ice Age. The resulting configuration of Gullfoss reflects geological strata in the area. Hard layers of Basalt lava (Dolerite) form the edges of both waterfalls, resting on softer sedimentary rock, through which the river can more easily carve a channel. These geological layers in the river's gorge are commonly referred to as Gullfoss layers. They were formed during, or soon after the mid-Ice Age.

The final destination was the þingvellir National Park. It is here that the continental drift between the North American and Eurasian Tectonic Plates can be clearly seen, by the cracks or faults that traverse the region. In Photo IS-026, the building on the extreme right of the photo, in front of some trees, is the original Icelandic Parliament (Alþingi) Building; also visible at the start of Video IS-003.

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A Panoramic View of the þingvellir National Park (0 minutes, 36 seconds) Video IS-003

Before our return journey, there was also time for taking a refreshment break. Unfortunately, the queue for the hot meals was long; too long to join for anyone wanting something cooked. In the ten minutes left, I went to the payment end of the counter and asked for a portion of Apple Pie. A minute or so later, I was sat at a table, enjoying it, while others were still queuing!

The coach arrived safely back in Reykjavík, but by the time I was ready to go out for a meal (about 16h00), most of the shops and restaurants were either closed, or about to close. There wasn't as many people out and about, compared to last night. The few restaurants that were open (for example, the Vietnam in Laugavegur) were full to the brim! Therefore, I returned to the hotel, via the Icelandic Deli (which was open and where I bought a large sandwich and a piece of gateau - to eat back at the hotel).

Merry Christmas Gleðileg jól

There was no rush to get up this morning, as I imagined the majority of shops were closed. If not closed, they opened later and for fewer hours than usual. However, for my breakfast, I went to the Icelandic Deli (again), which was open, for my usual Croissant (warm this time) and a mug of hot chocolate.

When ready, I went walkabout again; this time along Frikirkjuvegur (the eastern side of The Pond/Lake Tjörnin). The water was completely frozen, apart for a small area at the northern end, where many forms of bird life (ducks, swans and many others) were being fed by humans! I hope bread wasn't being fed to the birds, as it is not good for them!

I continued going south, into Sóleyjargata until it crosses Njaröargata, where I turned left (north-east) and headed up-hill towards the Hallgrímskirkja Church. Upon reaching it, I continued down-hill, along Frakkastígur, to the sea front (Sæbraut).

The mountains across the water were shrouded in cloud, with what looked like precipitation (snow and/or rain) falling in the entrance of Hvalfjörður; see Photo IS-029. About 10 minutes later, the entrance to the fjord became visible.

I continued along the sea front, when almost reaching the Harpa Concert Hall, I noticed a small plaque (Photo IS-030), with the following words on it: In a crevice among some large rocks by the Atlantic Ocean in Reykjavík. What I found amazing was that I had not spotted it before, during the numerous times I had passed that location! I continued into town, past the Christmas Cat, and did a little bit of exploring in, and around, the Austurvöllur Park and Garden.

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I gradually made my way back to the hotel - to warm up - and watched The Sting! Once that had finished, my stomach began thinking my throat had been cut, so I ventured out into the cold again, with two possible restaurant objectives: the Old Iceland Restaurant (for some fish (cod)) or the Italian Rossopomodoro Restaurant (for some pasta); both along Laugavegur. The Old Iceland Restaurant at No. 72, was closed, so the Italian restaurant won the contest, where I had a Salmon Pizza (so much for having pasta!) and Tiramsu for dessert. [The cod in the Old Iceland Restaurant will have to be tomorrow's main meal.]

Two days left in Iceland. For breakfast, at the Deli, I had a large chocolate biscuit (for a change), accompanied by a mug of Hot Chocolate. Once I had finished (at about 10h15) I went out into the cold and windy streets. The cloud base was complete; i.e., there were no breaks. Despite the sky beginning to get light (at about 11h00), there were not many people about (see Photo IS-035 and Photo IS-036, views of Laugavegur, looking south-easterly and north-westerly respectively), despite more shops being open; including the What's On travel shop, the Thor gift shop next door (from where Photo IS-037 was taken), the Café Paris restaurant and the Harpa Concert Hall building.

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The cold was getting to me, so I returned to the hotel to get warm, with the intention of going out again; which I did some hours later.

That afternoon, I went directly to the Gray Line office and enquired about joining this evening's Northern Lights tour. I was told that because of the low cloud cover, the tour had been cancelled. My next best option was to try tomorrow morning. However, the receptionist told me that a "Go/No Go" decision could even be made up to 30 minutes before the planned departure time!

Upon leaving the office, I felt a few light rain drops on my face, from a possible large cloud cover, implying that the evening's tour would definitely be cancelled.

Time to eat (16h05), so I made my way to the Old Icelandic Restaurant, looking forward to a potion of Fillet of Cod. Fortunately (from outside), there were a few free tables. However, upon entering at 16h10, the Manageress (Marzena) told me:

"Sorry, but we are closed".

"OK, I'll come back tomorrow" I said.

Obviously recognising me from my previous (two) visits, she said "Hold on, I'll check with the chef".

She returned a few minutes later with a smile on her face and said "It's no problem, please take a seat". And so I happily did, and requested Fillet of Cod - and I highly recommended it too; Photo IS-038!

When I had finished the delicious meal and went to pay, I discovered that the restaurant closes between 15h30 and 17h00, in order to give the staff time to have something to eat, and for the tables to be laid for the evening session.

After thanking Marzena for the excellent food and service, I left and made my way back to the hotel. By now, the intensity of the falling rain had increased to moderate (in meterorolgical terms). As it was on my way, I made a slight diversion into the Icelandic Deli for a dessert - a portion of Chocolate Gateau, to be eaten back at the hotel.

It was later suggested that I do more activities; for example, Whale Watching, relaxing in the Blue Lagoon and Horseback Riding. Well, in a past life, I have done similar activities in different parts of the world. What I really wanted to do in Iceland was new activities; i.e., seeing the Northern Lights and Hot Springs (Geysers), which I did. Mission accomplished!

From the warmth and comfort of the hotel, I selected my seat on the Port side of the aircraft, for my return flight on Saturday, hoping that my choice would allow me to see Reykjavík on take-off, rather than the ocean - as on the inbound flight. I was gambling on the aircraft taking off in a southerly direction. Of course, it all depended upon the wind direction on Saturday morning!

My last full day in Iceland. I had breakfast in the Icelandic Deli (again), at 08h30 on a rainy morning, which consisted of a warm Croissant, an Ástarpungar (also known as a Love Ball - a sweet, deep-fired ball of dough, having a lemon flavour and raisins), and a mug of Hot Chocolate. The Ástarpungar reminded me of the much nicer Dutch Oliebollem (Dutch Doughnut) I had when working in the Netherlands.

After breakfast, my next objective was to visit the Gray Line office to see if the Northern Lights tour was on this evening. I was doubtful, due to the low, thick cloud and the rain. Sure enough, I was told that a decision will be made later. I am sure that other tours were effected by the wet weather.

Even though the temperature was tropical (+4°C compared to recent levels), it was another wet day with a low grey cloud base. It stayed like that for the rest of the daylight period. At 18h00, I walked to the Old Icelandic Restaurant for my last Icelandic dinner. However, the restaurant was full, so I ended up at Harry's Sea Food and Grill Restaurant, where I had a very nice Grilled Salmon, Brocolli and Crispy Potatoes, and a glass of Viking Lager.

When I passed the Old Icelandic Restaurant on my way back to the hotel, prospective diners were cueing for a table! Obviously, a very popular restaurant - with excellent food!

A few metres from the hotel, the Husband Daycare Centre text at the front of the Bjarni Fel Sport Bar (Photo IS-039) made me smile. There was also a large television in one of the widows (Photo IS-040), showing a live football match from the UK.

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I didn't sleep well, waking up at 03h30, and unable to go back to sleep! I was probably concerned about oversleeping and missing the pick-up bus to the airport - and ultimately, the flight home! Needless to say, I had plenty of time to get ready and pack my suitcase, finally checking out of the hotel at 07h00.

For the very last time, I made my way to the Icelandic Deli - and Bus Stop 3 - for breakfast: a Warm Croissant and Hot Chocolate (again). I was left with 520 ISK and with a croissant costing 495 ISK, I thought that buying another croissant (for the journey) was the best way of off-loading my remaining Icelandic currency. I wrapped the croissant up and put it in my backpack - but completely forgot about it until later.

Before the minibus arrived, I had time to walk back to the corner of Lækjargata and Austurstræti to take a few last photos of what I believe to be the centre of Reykjavík:

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My transport to the airport (via the Gray Line Terminus) arrived shortly after 08h00. At the airport, check-in was quick and efficient, and I was air-side without any problem. At the departure gate, I remembered that I had a croissant in my hand luggage! I was surprised that I wasn't detained when the backpack (containing the 'food') went through the scanner!

The flight back to Heathrow arrived on time (at 14h25) and within an hour, I was back at my car and on my way home.

When I first walked around Reykyavík, I noticed a road sound similar to when cars drive over grit, thinking that the roads had been gritted to help melt any snow and ice. But when I saw that there was no grit on the roads, I realised that the noise was from studied car tyres; reminding me of the sound I heard (during winter) when working in France and Switzerland some years ago. Incidentally, it was the first time I had heard, and seen, so many pedal cycles with studied tyres too!

The Icelandic people are very kind and polite, unike some of the tourists; a high percentage of which were Chinese (hopefully without carrying Coronavirus/COVID-19)! That aside, I am pleased that I went, but I have to admit that I prefer the warmth of the tropics, rather than the frozen north!